P1457 code?

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H

hondadriver

Member
Ok, here it goes, I swapped in a b16a into my 98 civic last winter. After 3 days of driving I got the P1457 code(evap system leak charcoall canister area). So I read through my helms book, and I bought the vacuum pump to test the vacuum lines. I tested all my solenoids, and they all click, I tested them individually and from the ecu. So one day I was testing the two way valve again, and the vacuum gauge read alittle was leaking so I went to honda and bought the two way valve and the bypas solenoid. 3 days later the code came up again. So then I did a search ( and I'm pretty sure there is no topic about the P1457 code that I havent read! I spent all summer testing and researching) And people were saying that the canister shut off valve could be bad becasue in colder climates they can become defective. Well I'm thinking mine has to be good becasue it clicks when i put power to it, so I said fuck it I'll order one and see if it does it. Again I got the code. So i tried the charcoal canister, replaced that and it still didn't solve the problem. So now I'm going nutts, I replaced half of the evap system and put hose clamps on all the hoses and its still there. I also purchased another P2T ecu off abay to see if mine was fucked. well it wasn't so I resold the ecu on ebay. PLEASE don't say that my gas cap is loose, if that were the case it would be the P1456 code ( evap leak gas tank area). And now in NY state we are getting the Emission computer test, where they check for check engine lights. So I cannot use a OBD1 ecu. If you do a search for this P1457 code you will find most responses are the gas cap.which doesn't help!! Because mine seals fine everytime I go to fill up you hear the pressure escapeing.

So far I found something interesting- The only thing I didn't replace is the purge control solenoid. So just for the hell of it I took the Purge control solenoid out and ran a hose straight from the IM to the charcoal canister, I also unplugged the 2pin wire connector off the purge control solenoid. So now the Purge Control solenoid and the wire connector are hanging in my engine bay. AND now after driving for 1 month I get no check engine light, which is cool, but my status on my OBD2 scanner says "not ready" for the evap system. Which needs to be in the "ready" stage to pass emissions. FUCK! You can say that ,my purge control solenoid is bad, but it does click when I put power to it. I did a continuity test on the pins in the solenoid and I got continuity going across the 2 pins, which means that they are connected, but I'm not sure if that is right CAN some please do a continuity test on their solenoid and let me now if its suppose to be that way.

I need a serious response PLEASE! And don't tell me that this topic has been covered and do a search because I have and all the other posts go no responses, I gave you as much info as I can too what I did so far. I'd replace the purge control
solenoid but its too expensive to guess on, I wanna find out for sure.
 
All the lines are good, they all have hose clamps and I tested them with a vacuum pump.

I just got a email back from a guy I emailed a while ago, I emailed him because he had a prelude with the same code, And his problem was the purge control solenoid, So I was on the happy side, I said YES that might be it. But he emailed me saying his solenoid had a crack on it. So I said FUCK! here I go again trying to still solve this mystery.

I mean It makes no sense, i never had it before I did the swap, and the only evap thing I touched was the purge valve and the hose going to the canister, and YET all the hoses, and valves check out fine. I keep telling myself it might be the ecu, But I already tried 2 different ones.

But I really need a favor can SOMEONE please take off their purge solenoid and do a continuity test on the 2 pins in the solenoid. If you have a continuity tester usually you'll have 2 probes and when you touch them together you'll hear a beeb which means there IS continuity. If you have a VOLTMETER then put it on OHMS, and your screen should either read like a 19.99 or 199.99, or the screen will be blank depends on the meter. When you have it on OHMS, touch the probes together and the screen should read ZEROS 0.00, 00.00!!! Meaning there is continuity.

It couldn't be a O2 sensor code, or a vtec press switch, or a IAt sensor,, NO NO NO, It has to be a evap SYSTEM consisting of more then 1 possible thing that can be the problem.

If there is anything that I haven't list that could be a probable cause let me Know.
 
OK. If i hear Psssshhhh ( gas escaping) when I unscrew my gas cap does that mean my gas cap is GOOD? If it does than that cancels out the possibilty of there being a leak in my tank!

And did anyone quickly test there puge solenoid for me? It would really help me out by canceling out the possiblity of my purge solenoid being bad? It's not like i'm asking you guys to take off your tranny and count how many teeth you got on your flywheel!(LOL) This will probably help other people in there search for a cure to their P1457 code.

Thanks!!
 
OK, I DID MORE TESTING, FOUND SOMETHING NEW.

Ok, I read the Helms manual again and I did the testing for the Purge Control Solenoid. I raised the front of the car onto jack stands and hooked up a vacuum gauage to the other side of the pcs (purge control solenoid). So know I have One side of the pcs hookd up to the IM and the other to the vacuum gauage. Ok the book says to warm up the engine until the fan comes on, OK did that!! Now put the car in first gear and rev it up to 3k rpm. Ok, Now there should be vacuum because the PCS is suppose to open. But I'm getting no vacuum. So I put 12v and ground to the solenoid and it clicked open and I did the test again now I am getting vacuum. So the only thing left to check is the wiring. I did a continuity test on the wires they are not OPEN OR SHORTED to the body. SO the wires are fine. I looked at the wireing diagram for the engine harness and I saw that the Blk/Yel wire that goes to the PCS is suppose to have 12v when the key is in or when the motor is started! That checks fine there is 12v. So If there is a Constant 12v already going to the valve that means the ecu throws a GROUND to open the valve RIGHT??? So I measure the voltage across the connector and it reads 12v. but when I plug the solenoid in it doesn't open. SO WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG?

So we have:
-12v at the Blk/Yel
-Valve opens and close when 12v and ground is put to it
-wires are all good
-HHHHMMMMMMM, a problem!
 
2 year old thread. please check the dates before bringing a thread back from the dead.
 
I was just curious as to whether or not you found what it was because I am having the same problem. The reason I opened the thread was because it seemed to come to a close without a fix. So if you could please just tell me what the fix was. Cheers mate.
 
it wasnt his problem.. look at the original posters profile if you really must ask someone.. email the guy
 
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