p28

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dok

Senior Member
I have heard that these ecu p28 can be chipped very easy to run almost any thing my ? is were can i get the chipps and which are the best for a gsr and what do they cost
 
chipped ecu's suck. use the ecu that was intended to be used with your motor.
 
213 WHP from 4 dyno pulls, a wideband and a chipped ECU using Uberdata on a stock D16Z6 pushing 10psi. http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/forum/ind...ay;threadid=151

NHRA Sport Compact Nationals, Englishtown, N.J. Dyno Challenge - Mark Pozzobon uses Crome + a stock ECU to win the naturally aspirated bracket.
http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2003/dyno/results.html

So what was it you were saying again? That you need to shut your mouth before making sweeping generalizations?

Civicious, please shut the fuck up.
 
Originally posted by Chet Hewitt OBD-1 ECU Comparison
So you are soooo convinced that you need a chipped ECU to go fast.
You didn't listen to me when i said to get a hondata.
Well, here I will make one last effort to save you from spending your
money on an ECU chip and making your car slower.
SLOWER?? Yes, that wasn't a typo. Read on and find out why.

Chet has a usdm B16a3 with a JDM ITR tranny with a 4.785 final drive ratio, apexi world sport exhaust, comptech header, iceman air intake and a test pipe. So I think it is a fair assumption that this is a near stock engine. No internal modification, just bolt ons really. Chet has tried several ECUs in his car and had a chance to dyno each of them. What follows is a comparison of each of the ECUs that Chet had in his car. You will see that for a near stock engine the best ECU is the one that came with it. Chet used a skunk2 chipped P28 ECU, a P61 ECU and finally the P30, which is the original ECU that came with the b16a3. All of this was done on a Dynojet. It should be noted that the p30 was dynoed when temperatures were 20 degrees warmer. 80's vs. 60's, so that may account for a slight variation in numbers. Also, the 4.785 FD ratio has been known to produce a decrease of 2-5 hp over the stock 4.40 FD ratio. All of the runs were made with this 4.785 Final Drive ratio.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


In the following charts, the color codes are as follows:
green - skunk2 P28
blue - p30
red - p61
This chart has a comparison of ALL 3 ECUs that were tested compared side by side.
chet_dyno4.jpg

This next chart include an air:fuel curve comparison between the p61 ECU and the skunk2 ECU. Notice how the skunk2 ECU goes to 10:1 !!!! That is running INCREDIBLY rich, which is very unneccesary. Chet said he got 18 mpg with that ECU. He makes his peak HP of 144 and the p61 makes 150 whp while keeping an air:fuel ratio of near 13.0:1 and goes to 12.0:1 near redline. Hondata even suggests and has noticed a trend that peak power is obtained by tuning a ratio of 13-13.5:1 a/f. So with an ECU like hondata, Chet could easily gain some peak power by leaning out his mixture. By raising the VTEC crossover, he may even be able to smooth the slight dip right at the point when VTEC engages.
chet_dyno2.jpg

Finally we have just a view of the results of the p30. Notice the smooth curves.
chet_dyno3.jpg
 
i think you are misusing my information...

that is meant to turn people away from a generic program written by "jun" "mugen" etc...

i support the self tuning of ECU's. you can extract more power with a properly written fuel map etc.

if you read on my site.. you'll see my gains that I got by tuning my hondata system.. although i'm still just a beginner at that.. i've done a few cars and extracted more hp.. but most importantly got a nice smooth a:f ratio.. so i know it doesnt go wayyyy lean or to rich etc...

if i had known about the self-tuning things provided by pgmfi.org i wouldn't have spent all the money i did on the hondata... but hey.. it happens... we are all ignorant at some point and i was just convinced that hondata was just the cool thing to have.. so my del sol needed it...

anyways... i dont want to have that little thing taken out of context... it's meant to hate on generic chips
 
dok originally asked where he could "get the chips." I pointed him towards (arguably) the best place to learn how to tune your car, DIY style. I think you lose this argument when even the source you cite agrees that a well tuned stock ECU is no joke, and says that he would have looked at DIY tools instead of hondata if he knew about them.

I acknowledge that telling you to STFU was rude. I guess after putting in (literally) hundreds if not thousands of hours of work on making DIY tuning solutions accessible and available to all, I took it a little personally. For my rudeness, I apologize.

I hope that one day you chip your own ECU and tune your car properly too so you can see that chipped ECUs only suck as badly as the person chipping them.
Thankyou,

-Dave
 
he said 'i heard a p28 can be chipped very easily......where can i get the chips'...which if he just ordered a chip and put it in, it'd be more than likely a generic 'spoon/mugen/skunk2' program, and running a hondata (or something of the like) and tuning it wouldnt be something i'd describe as 'very easy'....

i assumed he was talking about buying an ebay chip and just soldering it in, which as pills' article shows, sucks.



what are we disagreeing on here?
 
and 'chipped' means 'buying a generic chip and putting it on your ecu'...

actually getting your ecu reprogrammed by IL4, Skunk2, etc. is 'getting your ecu reprogrammed'...

and using something like hondata and tuning it is...uh...not chipping...


right?
 
not really.. because with a hondata system all you do is "chip" the ECU or "socket" it... to accept the same type of chip as the generic ones (mug4en and jun and skunk etc) the only addition is the interface box.

when people have their ECU modified... all they are doing is soldering in a few resistors maybe a capacitor or two and a socket for a ROM and a 74hcn something or other smaller chip...
 
skunk2 ECUs are garbage. I've seen real-deals. The *might* be decent for a specially built motor, but not for what they get used on. They're a ripoff/minor modification of the Mugen race platform.

The only difference between an ebay chip and a "Skunk2" ECU is how badly you get ripped off.

Note: things may have changed since the last time I saw a Skunk2 ECU, so if you have one and can post a dyno with decent (instead of pig-rich) AFRs, I'll retract my statement.
 
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