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Putting the motor together help

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by cheese9988, Feb 13, 2007.

  1. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    I almost have all the parts back from the machine shop for my ZC. Once thats done I can put it back together. I do have some questions, and will probably ask more after that. I want to make sure I put everything together just fine.

    Whats been done so far:

    parts:
    remanufactured crank (old one was out of spec)
    new rods
    new pistons
    new rings
    new gaskets all around
    new bearings (will get from machine shop, oem)

    machine shop work:
    block line bore w/crank
    rotating assembly balance (what I'm still waiting to be finished)
    block has been notched (by me actually)
    resurfaced stock flywheel

    I have access to just about any measuring tool available. I have checked the cylinder wall tolerances, and they are good. Please add any comments or tell me if I have done something wrong, this is somewhat of a learning experience for me.

    Questions:
    1. I notched the block, there is iron dust everywhere in the block, whats the best way to remove it, powerwash and clean the cylinders with oil or wd40?
    2. Is there any special bearing grease I should use?
    3. I get differing answers on this. When I check the oil clearence for the bearings, should I check them dry, without any grease?
    4. This may be a question for the machine shop. Once the parts are balanced, do they have to be clocked certian ways to each other?
     
  2. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    1. The machine shop I use is in Buffalo, I dropped the parts off when I last visted my parents so the shop is going to send it back to me. I have delt with them for a while, I like the shop. Anyway can I clean the block myself, I'm not going to ship that up there unless I have to?
    2. You say not to use any assembly lube (what I called grease) at all?
     
  3. welfare

    welfare Ancient Member

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    This is VERY important, do not just get a set of "standard" bearings from an auto parts store, check the numbers on your crank and rods and use the chart to make sure you order the right size bearings, honda tolerance on rod bearings are in the ten thousandths range, you don't wanna just throw some crap in there and hope it works.
    As far as ordering from majestic honda, make sure you know what bearings are the same as the ZC, because You aren't going to find a listing for a 1990 honda crx ZC when you are looking up the parts.
    As far as I know the 89 integra had the same basic engine as the ZC, and if you are going to order acura parts use majestic honda's partner company acura carland Acura Parts @ AcuraAutomotiveParts.org - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Acura Carland you may have to actually call them to order so you can give them the color code that you need
     
  4. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    Have another question. I honed the cylinder walls out awhile ago. Someone had recommended (I think on this board) that I hone it right before I put the motor back together incase there is any slight surface rust. What do you guys think about that? It looks ok at the moment, but its already been honed, just not sure if you can do it to much or too little?
     
  5. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    I had forgotton we had a parts washer at work. Honda engine blocks being the nice size and weight they are fit right into the bin. Took all the oil, grease, carbon and whatever off the block without using any acid or water. Took only a few mins. Incase anyone is wondering a bare zc block with nothing attached to it only weighs 40 lbs.

    I have another question though. Someone looked at the hone I had done to it. He didn't think it had a great crosshatch on it. Is this something I should really worry about. It looks fine to me and feels mildly rough when I run my finger over it. Whats the worst that happens, the rings don't seat and don't last as long?
     
  6. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    Kinda looks like this, I'll see if I can get a picture later. This is off another website I found.[​IMG]
     
  7. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    Well, I guess thats one thing I'll have to take a chance on. It is my second car anyway so if it breaks, not a huge deal. The walls are slightly rough, not deaply scorn. I'll have to let you know how a "bad" crosshatch works out in the long run.

    What are signs of bad rings? Low compression, burning oil, poor performance, etc?
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2007
  8. 97CTR

    97CTR Senior Member

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    Good thread, just wanted to add that you should always use a "moly"(short for molybdenum) based assembly lube not engine oil when assembling an engine. Also you are better off using more assembly lube than a thin layer on your bearings for initial startup.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2007
  9. alterdcreations

    alterdcreations Member

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    more the better
    torco makes a great product
     
  10. alterdcreations

    alterdcreations Member

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    i have never been told not to use too much assembley lube. the more the better but dont pour it into youe engine like moter oil. also dont drive with it in your engine its only for intinal startups. once you engine warms up it washes away the lube. you must change you oil before you drive the car. change it twice if you can
     
  11. cheese9988

    cheese9988 Senior Member VIP

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    This could be a dumb question, but if you think its too rough, could it be sanded with some light sandpaper?
     
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