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Quick Question On E-Brake

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by YBLEGAL, May 23, 2008.

  1. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    I'm doing a rear disc conversion to my 2000 Civic EX. I've used '90 Integra rear calipers and spindles on my Civic's trailing arms along with 2000 Civic Si parking brake cables.

    I have not gotten my hydraulic brake lines completly installed yet, but when I went to test the parking brake, it would not lock the rear wheels. Should it be able to?

    There is no fluid in the calipers or the brake lines, so could that be the reason? This is my first time bleeding brakes and messing with an unbled system. BTW I ran all new brake lines. So there's litterally nothing in the lines. But I assume it's called an emergancy brake for reasons related.... so idk.

    Anyone have experiance they can tell me if it should work now or not? I just want to know if there's a problem that needs corrected before I get too much further.

    Thanks
     
  2. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    I didn't realize it was possible to use 90' Integra rear calipers and spindles on a 00'. I thought it had to be from a 94'-01' Integra?
     
  3. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Ya for sure. I forget but when I was searching for compatibility in the past, I may have found something that said it worked. Or, I just went to the junkyard and eye'd it out ^_^. 7CLP13S is the same Nissin part number stamped to the calipers that you would find on even a '99-00 Si rear caliper. as for the spindle, it bolted right up to my trailing arms. And it sits fine. Rolls fine. All indications are they're a direct fit.

    I think your thinking of swaping the entire trailing arm. Sort of the lazy way so you don't have to mess with those star bolts in the back of the spindle.

    Here's the link to my progress:
    5th Upgrade Session - Springs, Mounts, IM Gasket, AC Remove, Wiring, Rear Disc Conversion, Steel Braided Brake Lines
     
  4. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    Oh yea I was thinking of trailing arms, thanks for clearing that up.
     
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  5. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Anyone know of it should lock the wheels now or not??
     
  6. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Yes, it should. Maybe it just needs to be adjusted?
     
  7. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    damn that's the thing, i can screw the adjustment screw down till i run out of threads, and it still wont lock when i pull it all the way up.

    any suggestions? am i supposed to rotate the caliper piston and make it pop out more or something? again, noob here!
     
  8. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    What cable are you using?

    If you can, have someone check to see that it's even actuating the lever.
     
  9. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    it moves the lever some.

    i'm using 2000 civic si cables.

    it does make the brake pads touch a little bit, but wont even lock it strong enough to hold it on a level surface.
     
  10. Jared759

    Jared759 Well-Known Member VIP

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    I'm having the same problem. I'm thinking that there is some way to adjust the lever in the back.

    I haven't actually made an effort to try yet.
     
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  11. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Try using the correct cables.
     
  12. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    then in your opinion, what are the correct cables? the calipers are the same Nissin part numbers as 2000 civic si calipers. my vehicle is a 2000 civic ex. the si that year was a coupe. as well as my EJ8. everyone says use the 2000 civic si cables, which makes perfect sense to me.

    so what's the right cables then?

    your absolutly certian that they should hold with a bone dry hydraulic system?
     
  13. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Whoops, I didn't realize you were already using Si cables. Yes, those should be the correct ones. Have you made sure they're routed correctly?

    Not sure with a bone-dry hydraulic system, but it should still hold. When I was working on a EG with rear discs, I had forgot to put the parking brake down and the caliper wouldn't move even after the hydraulic lines were taken off.
     
  14. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    The parking brake system is in no way tied to the hydraulic brake system. The parking brake is cable actuated. Try adjusting the parking brake cable itself.
     
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  15. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    wow man. you take me for that much of a noob? did you read? lol.

    i installed it. i know this. +, duh.

    now then can you tell me if the parking brake should lock with enough force to park the car on an incline, with the hydraulic system bone dry?

    the easy answer should be YES. but mine does not. so yeah. scroll up and read what i said too, maybe you'll see what i'm doing.
     
  16. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Just a though; bad brake pads or rusted rotors? Have you tried breaking the brakes in? When I had my car sitting for awhile and changed the pads/calipers(rotors were rusty too), it took some effort to stop the car. Once everything was broken in(rust gone and pads bedded in), it stopped just fine.
     
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  17. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    oo yeah forgot to mention, brand new rotors, brand new brake pads, and brand new from acura remanufacured calipers ;)

    i cant break the brakes in yet because the motor isnt running yet. maybe.., i did use brake cleaner on the rotors before install tho
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2008
  18. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    I have the feeling that your calipers aren't setup to the specification gap yet, and that's where your problems are coming from. Try measuring them out, then procede.

    I might have missed this, but you should check the actual parking brake lever.

    Behind the lever, there's a single cable to twin cable adapter, and if I remember properly, you can adjust that. You may want to just stick with adjusting the lever's single cable, because you don't want bias issues. Try tightening that cable adjuster enough to get the calipers close to spec, I don't remember the tolerances off the top of my head, but get them to spec, then try it your e-brake.
     
  19. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Hmm. Specification gap. I've never heard this term with brakes. I assume the tool to measure would be a feeler gauge.

    So I popped open my Haynes and took another read, and see if you can more clearly decipher what they're saying than me please:

    Seems like maybe I don't need to do any gap setting and they just need fluid in the lines and to be used a few times for them to automaticly adjust? They are rebuilt calipers, so basicly brand new never used thus never auto adjusted to any spec. Again, brand new pads and rotors.

    For sure the adjustment nut does not make much of a difference.
     
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  20. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Oh yeah, I almost forgot about that. They're self adjusting now. Geeze, the technology moves faster than I can keep up. I'm still used to the little alan-wrench tool I have to use to adjust the rears on my fiat.

    Just back down a hill a few times with your foot on the brake pedal. When you charge the system that is. If I remember properly, it'll only adjust the pedal, not the e-brake. But I don't have a manual handy, so I'm probably wrong. I think I remember my manual saying something about adjusting the e-brake....
     
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