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Rear Disk Conversion, wtb

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by YBLEGAL, Oct 27, 2007.

  1. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    EJ8 Rear Disc Conversion & Tuck

    The car is a 2000 Civic EX (EJ8)
    The motor doesn't matter...(SiR-II)

    Well those shitty rear drum brakes have got to go. I'm in the market for a disk conversion. I JUST purchased Omni rear lower control arms, so I'd like to find a conversion that doesn't include the OEM ones (save a lil $). But if I have to get them too, then so be it.

    Since a 2000 Si comes with rear disk, I assume this would be the most direct swap. I know I need a 40/40 proportioning valve, but I'm still not clear on what else. The brakes master cylinder I currently have is pretty strong, so I'm not going to worry about changing it like some people have suggested unless it causes me problems afterward. New pads and rotors too of course.

    Will I need new brake lines/fittings?
    Will the e-brake need any modifications to connect?
    What parts are explicitly required?
    Can I get just the rear hub assembly w/o arms and bolt right up?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2007
  2. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    So there's a mixed opinion on wether or not you need the 4040 valve. This is what I have. Someone with experiance, please tell me, will this one work, or will the 4040 be better? Orrrr, do they make an adjustable one? That would be more fun. I dont have time to google that right now tho, headin to the junkyard to look for trailing arms/assemblies :)

    ps, i'm also doin my wire tuck, so if anyone has any good sugestions on where to hide the brake proportioning valve, do tell.

    Current Valve (w/ drums)
    [​IMG]

    Where I'm at (disc conversion was an after thought, but I figured i'm back there anyway...breakin bolts and replacing LCA's)
    [​IMG]

    Things i'm adding/removing besides rear brakes:
    installed tein stech springs
    installed polyurathane motor mounts
    installed hondata im gasket
    removed FITV, made blockoff
    removed coolant hoses to FITV/IACV
    removed ac, lines, pump, condensor
    removed useless plugs from OBD2 D16Y8
    removed emissions systems
    rewiring and creating new engine wiring harness for my OBD1 that's been in it using neon blue flexo pet sheething and blue heat shrink
    installing rear omni lca's when they arrive
    broke 4 bolts removing rear shocks... :(

    thanks for any input!
     
  3. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    as far as adjustable proportioning valves go, i found some wilwood ones on ebay. how many would i need to adjust just front and rear bias? i dont really care about side to side. since each valve has only 1 in and out, i'm not sure how it would connect in. can someone shed some light? hopefully i wont have to repost in the brakes section...i figured with the more traffic here i might get an answer. Calesta? where are you, i know u've done all this before. i need your infinite wisdom ^_^
     
  4. dtob

    dtob New Member

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    I noticed that no one has replied to your post so I thought I would. Thought it might make you feel better.

    Well I can't really give you an answer on this stuff but it will be helpful for me when I do my rear disc swap. Can you post pics of the swap. Before, during and after?? I'm sure its pretty straight forward but would still be nice to see.
     
  5. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    sure, i've been taking lots of pics anyway. unfortunatly, i dont have any videos to show off stock stopping power, but i'll be sure to test the new ones well on video for ya. hehe
     
  6. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    I haven't done the conversion on that year Civic, but I would expect the Si rear discs to bolt up to your chassis without any problems since it is the same. You'll need the brake lines and the e-brake cables from the other car. As far as the master cylinder I've talked to people that have done the swap both ways and it doesn't seem to make a huge difference in stopping power. I'm sure it would help, but I don't think it's a huge deal because a lot of people don't change it and have no issues.

    I've swapped them on a CRX and we needed the trailing arms, knuckle/brake assy, and the lower control arms to complete the job. Most places selling the swap sell it as a whole setup, but if you can find it without the control arms your omni ones should work too unless they're different on the cars with rear drum (which I doubt, but can't confirm).

    Hope that helps..
     
  7. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    you dont need the whole setup!

    get an integra or civic si rear disk hub assembly, it unbolts from the t/a with just a couple special tools like star allen keys and a 22mm or 24mm socket. this how i did it on my car to avoid getting bent t/a which does happen even if they look straight. you will need ebrake cables from a civic si to finish the job. i used a 40/40 prop valve and suggest that. the master cylinder i did not change on mine so i cant speak of that. you should be able to score a 40/40 valve the same style as yours out of a 98-2001 integra or the civic si.
     
  8. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    YESS thank you vtec sir!

    honestly, from the start i was questioning why i wasnt just removing the large bolt your talking about. I had no idea why i needed the trailing arm. they look the same.

    So thanks much. cuz now if i find some in the junk yard, i probably wont need the sawzaw for all the bolts that inevitably break.

    Exactly what year range will be a compatable doner car? i found a 91 integra the other day w/ disc, but i thought it was too old. Thanks again!

    edit: also, what's the diff between the abs and non abs assemblies? can all traces of abs be removed? weight is a concern of mine!
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2007
  9. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    I'm curious about this as well, I have a 1992 Civic DX Sedan. How much does this cost, assuming you do the installation yourself?
     
  10. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Alright, I thought I'd post and update.

    I found some rear discs off an '90 Integra LS, no ABS. As far as compatibility goes, I cannot say exactly which models of anything will work for you. My 2000 civic has shorter trailing arms than this integra. And to reiterate how vtecsir1 was right about not needing the whole arm, he is correct! The '90 spindle bolts right on to my 2000's trailing arm. I've also ordered steel braided clutch lines for a 2000 Civic Si by Earl's, adjustable proportioning valves, and Energy Suspension polyurathane trailing arm inserts to compliment this swap. Those 3 things are not required. You could substitute the steel braided lines for standard rubber OEM hoses, but i chose to upgrade my upgrade. You will however need the parking brake cables for a 2000 Civic Si (for my car atleast...).

    I will post pictures as well as a detailed write up on my site over at YBLEGAL.net and in the referance materials section when it's complete.

    Tomarrow I will be sand blasting all the stuff that came from the integra, and painting them. I'm waiting on parts to arrive, as well as a trip to honda to order new bolts to replace what i've broken or rusted.

    I'm estimating a week and a half max to finish this project.

    I also need help with my injectors to finish my wiring harness. Please look at this post and help me out! http://hondaswap.com/ecu-s-electronics-tuning/can-you-quickly-help-confirm-injectors-95932/

    mucho grande gracias
     
  11. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    So far i've spent

    75 - Trailing arms/disc spindles off junkyard '90 teg ls
    100 - Earls steel braided lines
    30 - Energy suspension bushings
    20 - Duralast rotors w/ 3 year warrenty lol
    14 - Duralast pads w/ 2 year warrenty, again lol
    80 - Parking brake cables
    60 - Replacement bolts...
    25 - High temp paints
    40 - A good sandblasting at my buddies
    80 - Adjustable proportioning valves

    i still need hydraulic lines cuz i'm doing a wire tuck, cleanin up the bay.
    and brake fluid

    and probably more i cant think of
     
  12. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    Do you have a link to where you found the adjustable proportioning valves? I'd like to check that out..
     
  13. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    At first i thought i needed 2 valves, but you only need 1. This isnt the exact one i bought, but same type of function...
    eBay Motors: ADJUSTABLE BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE KNOB TYPE--NEW-- (item 280168490999 end time Nov-06-07 16:15:21 PST)

    Apparently, the line that comes from the MC splits, one route to the rear brakes, one route to the front brakes. The route to the front splits yet again to go to front left and right brakes. The route to the rear first goes to the proportioning valve, then splits to the rear left and right brakes. Front always gets full line pressure, but back can be adjusted. But like water, the pressure has to go some where so keep that in mind when you imagine how this system works.

    hope that helps anyone!
     
  14. norcalgsr

    norcalgsr Honda Master Technician

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    Interesting.. good luck with that don't put too much to the rear or you'll be off the road :D
     
  15. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    update :: update :: update

    At this point, the rear suspension is completly disassembled still. Most of the parts have come in. Still waiting on the calipers I ordered from Acura. Mine were so rusty and nasty lookin, I opt'd for the remanufactured OEM ones rather than trying to rebuild them myself.

    I've also ordered new brake lines to further compliment the adjustable prop valve and rear disc. I ordered 25' of steel braided Earl's Speedflex tube, with adapters and connections from MC to caliper, and everything inbetween. Here's a list of Earl's part numbers for those of you needing direction. And a great site to find and buy them from would be AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products Hose ends Hose,Adapter fittings

    *all #s begin with ERL such as ERL6000031

    963203
    961603
    600103
    962403
    601203
    997517
    640803
    609103
    6000031
    502403

    Because now I've started on the credit card, some of these parts that qualify for stainless steel application have had to be compromised for regular steel. For what I got, it totaled 269.11, including s&h. I'm sure I could have shaved a few doll hairs off shopping around, but I'd rather it all arrive soonly and completly at 1 time.

    I ran out of blue heat shrink, had to order more of that too. So my engine harness is about 1/2 complete. Got my dash removed the other day so I can run the new brake lines. And removing the dash was fairly simple for those of you who have never before. It took me about 2 hours of hunting for bolts by myself. I recommend having a friend help you manuver it out of your car though, as even with my buddies help it was tricky and felt somewhat fragile. It's always more nerve racking working with parts you cant afford to ruin.

    Slowly but surely. At this rate, I'll probably be testing after our first snow :ph34r:. Hopefully not.. I'll post back when more happens with the rear disc swap.
     
  16. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    update/question

    Brake lines are recieved. Started puttin them in tonight. Speed-flex Earl's line is a snap to install.

    Rear disc stuff is now painted. I got a piece of sand in the camera and now the lense is stuck so untill i get around to fixin that, no pics :(

    Wiring is just about done. anybody know how my mechanic got my tach to read with out the blue wire comming from the dizzy? Some GM article i read says you can get the engine speed pulse from the injectors or the ignition control modual. So I'm thinking I can use the ICM. Go figure, it was late and I cut something before i took note of it...bah. But that only makes 1 out of like, 80 wires?

    And sort of slow like, i decided what brake fluid i'm going with, ATE super blue, and just ordered that a few days ago. I should have the car supported on it's own wheels again in a couple of days, with all lines ran awaing the fluid.
     
  17. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Here's some progress photos. I gotta reorder some hose ends cuz the ones on the earl's kit made for a 2000 Civic Si does not fit right at all. The channel the neck is supposed to sit in is far too long for the bend in the banjo to allow it to sit flush. So those are for sale. I'm just going to run the steel braided line all the way to the caliper.

    Next, up goes the front so I can drop the power steering rack and remove the old brake lines and gas tank vent line. Repaint the front calipers and mounting brackets, finish running the brake lines. Then put the intake mani back on, and finish the wire tuck.

    Check out the 1.5" drop, looks much better!! Feels very stiff. Can't wait to drive her!!

    [​IMG]
     

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