Removing rusty bolts

[phyregod]

I need rear lower control arms that have a mounting point for a sway bar. The CX has no mounting points. Now, I installed an ITR suspension on my integra, so I have a set of Teggy Lower control arms with strut bar mount locations.

MY PROBLEM: The shock bolt is rusted into place, pretty damned solid. So solid, in fact, that I broke off the heads of both bolts trying to remove them. So I cut off the lower section of the shock mount and removed half of it, and tried hammering out the bolt with a 3lb sledge hammer. No go. I've soaked it with WD-40 for three days now and still no go. The bolt seems to be rusted all the way through the bushing to the LCA.

Any magic tricks?

 

[E_SolSi]

probly gunna have to heat that bastard up
got a torch?

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
probly gunna have to heat that bastard up
got a torch?

Yeah, I do have a torch, but I don't want to toast the bushing in there..

 

[E_SolSi]

hmmmmmm air hammer maybe then?

 

[reckedracing]

no, there are no tricks, there is nothing you can do about these now...

you need to remove the bushing and the broken bolt, and put new bushings in...

i always use a press to remove and reinstall...
if you don;t have a press do the following...

first get rid of the rubber and the metal center will come out...
(fire works well for this task)
the bolt is actually seized to this metal center and if you got the bolt to turn at all its because you ripped the metal free from the rubber...
i have been through this so many times, one time i thought the bolt was coming out cause i got it to turn but it just ripped the metal inner collar from the rubber in the bushing...

so first get the center out, then cut the outside of the bushing that remains in the control arm...
after cutting it you should be able to beat it out with a hammer...

now to reinstall you just need to get new bushings, put them in the freezer overnight and they should go into the control arms fairly easily...

the bushings are cheap but you will need to order them...

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
The rear LCA bushing set is like $15 from LightningMotorSports.com.

Gonna have to order 'em.. I am going to try to heat them first though. And I'll give the air hammer a shot at it too...

I guess that means no rear disk swap this weekend..

 

[reckedracing]

do you have a drill press? or are you REALLY good with a drill?

i attempted to drill the bolt out with the LCA on the car, and it went from bad to worse and i had to press it out and back in, but if you have a press, or can drill straight every time then try pilot drilling it to relieve pressure then up the bit size till it spins/breaks free, or till you're out to stock size...

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
do you have a drill press? or are you REALLY good with a drill?

i attempted to drill the bolt out with the LCA on the car, and it went from bad to worse and i had to press it out and back in, but if you have a press, or can drill straight every time then try pilot drilling it to relieve pressure then up the bit size till it spins/breaks free, or till you're out to stock size...

I do have a drill press

I'll add that to the list of things I am going to try tonight.

I was looking at the ebay LCA's and it seems as though there is nowhere to bolt up a rear sway bar.. That sucks ass.. Even on the $200-$300 ones. Was considering them to reduce unsprung weight.. Because the SiR-G brakes weigh ALOT more than the CX brakes.

 

[reckedracing]

i would seriously try the drill before the torch or the air hammer...

torch is going to burn the rubber out of the bushing, which is great if you are replacing it but not so good for re-use
and you will not be able to get it hot enough to get that bolt unstuck without burning it, i tried it, trust me
lol

ANTI SIEZE these bolts when you reassemble
1 month no anti sieze leaves you back where you started

the air hammer from personal experience will not get the bolt out but it has a good chance of mushrooming whatever piece of the bolt remains... so you could oblong the inner collar or just get it completely stuck beyond repair...
(i used a POS air hammer, cambell hosfield crap i think)

try the drill first...
hopefully once you send the pilot all the way through it will easy some pressure on the inner part...

 

[B16CRX]

I say burn it and replace teh bushing. its probably old and tired anyways. especially with a bolt rusted into it.

 

[reckedracing]

so how did this all work out for you??

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
so how did this all work out for you??

It didn't. Going after it tonight. This weeked I was PWND with work, and when I wasn't working, I was doing the Audio install from hell.. (had to remove ALL of the seats to get it done)

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
so how did this all work out for you??

I fookin gave up. I tried drilling, I tried heat, I soaked em for more than a week in wd 40 and "rust eater" penetrating lubricant..

I tried the air hammer, I tried an air chisle... I even tried heat, a pry bar, and the air hammer all at the same time.. Those bastards are stuck like whoa. I gave up and ordered a set of aluminum LCAs.. Its ok though, that'll offset some a little of the unsprung weight from the brake swap and sway bar.

 

[Autozoner n civic owner]

for any rusty bolts that are hard to get loose, get this stuff called PB Blaster. It is a penetrant like liquid wrench, but it works a whole lot better. You can find it at autozone.

 

[phyregod]

Quoted post[/post]]
for any rusty bolts that are hard to get loose, get this stuff called PB Blaster. It is a penetrant like liquid wrench, but it works a whole lot better. You can find it at autozone.

Tried that, too. Those fuckers are perma-stuck. I gave up.

*ps* stay the hell out of auto zone for honda parts.

 

[B16CRX]

Werd. I only go to autozone for oil filters, spark plugs, and car wash stuff.