Rough Idle Problem?

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L

loneranger

Junior Member
I had this "Rough Idling" problem over a year and gone through so many mechanics trying to fix it. The problem started with my "Dinan" chips burned out, then igition core and chip burned out too and then the catylic converter. All these problems made the idling worse.

Now all parts are replaced: distr. cap/components
sparke plugs wire
Mugen chip/motherboard
Major tune-up
Stock engine - 1992 Honda Civic Si (1.6 liter)

I don't know why it's still rough idling at 700 rpm? It's the IAC/TPS/FIT or what?
HELP? Any shop you can recommend in San Jose, CA.:(
 
Yeah...I did the search and read through all the post. All the idling problems are concerning newer models...my is 1992. <_<

Rough...does not surge or move up/down. The needle stays at 700 but goes down when:

1. Switch on headlights
2. Turn off AC

I can feel the "Slight Shake" on the driver side through the gas pedal. The same "Shake" feeling when I put my hand on the steering wheel. I had a feeling that the TPS is incorrect when my friend install the Mugen ECU without matching the idling with the stock engine? :blink:
 
you must have checked the screw on the TB to bypass air??

is the IAC valve functioning properly?

tps... .5 volts closed... 4.5 volts at WOT
 
thanks..guys for your input...I'll take it to DSR in San Jose, CA to check it out...they got all kinds of equimnts there!!
 
All you need is a voltmeter to check for the voltage on the tps sensor. As for the IAC valve; spray intake medic into it then let it sit for a while....reinstall IAC. The car will idle really bad at first..if at all then after many start and stops it will idle mint. I would not waste your money getting a mechanic to do this.
 
can u change the rpms at idle with the mugan ecu if so add like 200rpms and take it for a test drive other wise it might just be the alt and or battery B)
 
OH...I wish I can do this myself...when it's come to IACV or tps, I have no clue. When I have the $$$, I'll switch to a Hondata ecu. :)
 
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