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Shhiiattt My Car! Dieiingg! Help!

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by gupta_p, Mar 20, 2003.

  1. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Okay ... let me tell you exactly what the problem's symptoms are.

    I was driving to school today in my 1992 Honda Civic HB CX, when all of a sudden .. an engine light turned on. It was the "Check" light that's yellow and has a little tank around the text. I'm not even sure waht that light means .. or what it's called. I didn't get a civic manual with my car, so I can't refrence that eaither, and my hanes book doesn't tell me shit. I'm guessing it has somethign to do with my problem, cuz right after the light turned on, things started getting weird.

    I was just coming to a light, so I was slowing down, and sensed no problem ('cept a weird slip when the the light turned on). Then I started driving, and it was werid .. my car kept jerking. I'd start driving, and as I was driving .. the engine's connection with the wheels would keep slipping, and the car would be jerky. I thought it might be a bad clutch, but it seems to be something else .. continue reading.

    Anyhow, I got to school, and checked out all the info on clutches, and I guessed that since it happened randomily, mebbe my clutch was broken.

    I got out of school, and was driving home, and yah, the sliiping and jerking continued. (this time it was quite a bit worse). Then I came to a stop light, somewhat close to my house, and weird shit started happening.

    The car started getting REALLY rought on the idle, and seemed to be dieing, so I reved to keep the engine alive. I started driving, and it was jerky and shaky again, but this is where things get really werid. I was turning onto my lane, when all of a sudden, at 40 mph, my car STALLED. This has never happened before ... i'm nto sure what the problem is.

    Anyhow, I sat in my driveway for a bit .. and I was reading my hanes manual, when all of a sudden, the car started idling weird again! It was idling badly for a little while, and I finally decided to give it a little rev to stop the shaking. After reving, my car just stalled.


    I think my clutch idea might be wrong... any ideas?

    HELLLPPP!!! I have no idea. Seriously, any help will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks you all.
     
  2. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    Doesn't sound like it's the clutch. It sounds like a combustion problem (O2 sensor, fuel delivery, etc), and that the ECU is dumping a bunch of fuel into the cylinders to try to stop the car from blowing up.

    Your first job should be to pull that code and find out what it is.
     
  3. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Is there a simple way I can get the code? I'd realllllyyy like to save money. Yah, i'm broke.

    (and I found out the little yellow check light is a ghetto all purpose "you're fucked" light)
     
  4. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    I'm not sure how to pull the all-purpose you're-fucked code on your particular car. :) I'm sure someone else here does though.
     
  5. 90 accord

    90 accord Chicks dig the box Moderator VIP

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    i think all you have to do is find the ecu, put something metal across all of the pins and count the blinks then check engine light does.. don't quote me on that though, look it up in the faq// referance section.
     
  6. stick a paper clip pin to the drive and see the flashes...
     
  7. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    codes yo


    pull the code and come back to us.
     
  8. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Damn, that guide is the very worst ... i'll have to find another way.. lol

    Can anyone give me more detail?
     
  9. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Got a Code 9!


    EDIT: More idea gotten...

    CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
    defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
    * not a valid code for any throttle body injection Hondas
    ** not a valid code for V-6 engines
     
  10. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Hmmm .. I've got more information to throw into the "bag"

    Apparently honda distributors are total utter crap.

    Is it possible my distributor is dead?
     
  11. brc80

    brc80 Senior Member

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    My car was acting the same way till i changed my distributor, if there was an aftermarket distributor id buy it.
     
  12. omega11855

    omega11855 Senior Member

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    thats sounds like an ignition problem i dont know if its your distributor but my stepdad has a bronco (i know its not a honda) and it was doing the same thing it was the points losing contact of the ignition well hope that helps
     
  13. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    omega you might be right ..

    I was an idiot, and didn't realsie you could get more than 1 code.


    I've got 2 Codes now ..

    Code 9, and Code 15.

    9,15 ..


    9 is about the CYP Sensor, 15 is about some Ignition Output signal ..


    DAMMNNITTT HELLPP!!
     
  14. hcivic.com

    hcivic.com Senior Member

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    relax
    look in your hanes what the code means
    chances are you need a new or rebuilt disributor
    Honda is the best there is aftermarket is mostly shit
    The ingnitor may be bad or you need a new cap it could be a houndreed things but look up the codes in a manual
     
  15. sportlinecrx

    sportlinecrx Banned

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    have u done the regular maintenance stuff? replace dist. cap, rotor, sp. plug wires?? if those are way overdue, they could cause the problem you are having. i would try to replace the cap and rotor first. should only be about $30 for parts.
     
  16. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Well, i'm gonna go in and test/look at everything that I can get my hands on (without breaking).


    BlackJDMDeath told me he's having a similair problem, so I'm gonna further look into the solution he suggested. I'll keep you all posted, cuz trust me .. this is my first car, and i'm no mechanic.
     
  17. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Okay .. here's an update .. and a question.

    Update --> The Code 9 (CYP Sensor Failure) has to be a lie! I checked the resistance and I'm getting 377 ohms, which is what I should be getting. I checked all my other distributor sensors (TDC and CKP) and they too were all fine. (the ECU was only complaining about the CYP Sensor).

    Question --> How do I take my distributor apart? I can take the cover of my distributor off .. cuz there are only 3 screws to deal with, but after that I can't seem to get the other parts off. My haynes manual is a TOTAL UTTER PIECE OF SHIT. It doesn't tell me anything. If you have a helmes manual, and you see the section that would most help me, plleeeasseeee scan, and post/send/email, anything!


    Thanks! (my question up there .. will hopefully help adress my Code 15 error).

    Edit: Update ---> I found a somewhat large hole on the underside of my PCV Hose. I'm gonna get that replaced... but could take be causing some of my problems?
     
  18. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Okay .. more information.

    So, now I'm driving, and I can actually pinpoint problems.

    I wrapped my PCV hose with ducktape, so that it wouldn't leak gasses (wateva gases there are).

    Anyhow, I was driving, and my car was working magicalllyyy! Then, I came to a turning signal probably about 5 minutes from my house .. car stalled (35 mph). I made my u-turn, and let off the clutch to simulate a push start, and the engine started again, and I drove. I came to another stop liught .. stalled (25 mph). Then I put my toes on the brake, and my heel on the accelerator ... and I didn't let the car die again.

    I came home... I looked at stuff, replaced the ducktape ... and went off again. This time, the stalling kept happening, but now I've got a weird problem. I can't go past 20 mph in 1st gear, and I can't go past 40 mph in 2nd gear (without the car jerking around really horribly like it was doing in my first post).

    I got home, and I took a look at my check engine light (which came on, and I did clear the ECU before I left the second time) ..

    Now I have a Code 4... in addition to my Code 9 and Code 15.

    The Code 4 is the CKP sensor ..


    but I can't believe that's right .. I checked all the sensors, and they were all giving me the right resistances .. so theoretically they were supposed to be working?


    I'm not sure what's wrong with my car, and I can't figure out how to remove the rotor from the distributor (damn haynes manual, I hope it ignites), so that I can test my ignition coil.


    Aiiieee. Today's work on my car negatvely effected the welfare of it. :( :( :( :( :( :(
     
  19. gupta_p

    gupta_p Senior Member

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    Well, in my magical learning experience with my car, i discovered another interesting thing.

    When I first turned my car on (60 degrees outside, nite time), it took quite a few tries before it started.

    Then it started really rough, almost on the verge of stalling, but then my check engine light comes on, and the idle smoothes out, and things are neat.

    I didn't drive it, I was just putting all my garbage paper from school together in a pile, so I could do work ;)
     
  20. MaaseyRacer

    MaaseyRacer Senior Member

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    just replace the PCV valve it is way cheap and easy to do... i believe that auto zone and kragen have them way cheap... they need to be changed every now and then...
     
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