So uh, whats the proper way to fix a stripped hole

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BlackFrog

BlackFrog

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Yeah, after about 2 weeks, not much hard driving, one of the bolts backed out from my rear sway bar (S/T sway/tie combo). Normally this wouldnt be a problem, except the bolt took the aluminum threads it was in with it. The bolt is the upper bolt for the drivers side mount. the one with the poly bushings, that hold the bar to the subframe. Its the upper bolt of the 2.

Anyway, at first i think, its not that bad, i'll drill out the hole a little, put a nut on the back of the bolt, and be done with it. Only problem is, you cant put a nut on that bolt!

So, am i wrong about this? I havent had a chance to get the car in the air, but im pretty sure i cant get at the bolt from behind to put a nut on it. Can i just drill the hole, retap it for a bigger bolt, use a bigger washer and hope it doesnt pull out again? Or is there a better way to fix this? Also, should i do whatever will fix to the other side also, even though its holding tight?

-Chris
 
i would fix only the side necessary, that being said unless u can get at it from out back somehow(u said u didnt think you could) than drilling tappng is gonna be your only option. Best of luck to ya
 
They have a thing called a helicoil, you basically buy the $30-40 kit at the autoparts store. It comes with a tap, these spring thngs you screw into the hole tht you tapped with the tap in the kit, and then screw your original bolt into that. They make them for all different size threads so take the bolt you are using into the auto parts store when buying one. They work good, I have used them on stripped brake caliper mounting holes a couple of times. They come with like ten spring things, so if you strip othe bolt holes the same size, you have more. My .02
Good Luck :D
 
just a thought, would the Beaks reinforcement kit work, even though i have the S/T kit? Looking at the pictures, i dont see why it wouldnt, and it says its for EG chassis...
 
Anyway, at first i think, its not that bad, i'll drill out the hole a little, put a nut on the back of the bolt, and be done with it. Only problem is, you cant put a nut on that bolt!
Click to expand...


Is that because of a clearance issue? ie: not enough room to fit a nut up there?

If I remember correctly, the nut that you had stripped out is just tack welded to the subframe. You should be able to chizzle it off, and put a normal nut in its place. Probably use the same size bolt as well.
 
Originally posted by StyleTEG@Jan 8 2004, 03:10 PM
If I remember correctly, the nut that you had stripped out is just tack welded to the subframe. You should be able to chizzle it off, and put a normal nut in its place. Probably use the same size bolt as well.
Click to expand...

:werd:
did it tear out the subframe at all though? you might need some other re-enforcment. what spring rates are you using in the rear? they may be too soft.
 
i dont think i can put a nut there because i cant feel the bolt with my finger, which leads me to believe that the bolt threads into something that you cant see. Though, now that i think about it, if there were the case something like the Beaks kit wouldnt work because there would be no place to put it.

Perhaps it is just a nut that is stripped, but the bolt threads into the subframe, and i think that is it.

As for springs being too soft, im pretty sure thats not the case. Ive got skunk coilovers, 400 front, 500 rear. So i dont think soft springs are the problem
 
no, unfortunately its not. you can probably understand what im talking abot eric, since youve got the same thing as me. its the bolts that hold the sway bar to the subframe, with the bushings in it.

im thinking that the beaks kit might fix it... any thoughts on that?
 
where exactly is the problem


s3ffe05f641ec3.jpg
 
here are twio ways i can think of . . .

1. drill and tap for a larger bolt. this will probably require drilling the silver suspension bar bracket.

2. have a nut welded on the inside of the frame where the treads are stripped. this will pobably require a body shop to cut open the frame, weld in athe proper nut, and weld the frame back up.

good luck man
 
JB weld claims it can be drilled, tapped, etc. Mix some of that up, fill in the hole, let dry, tap, and you should be alright.
 
SO I guess everyone here besides me has never tried a helicoil, or they have, and just don't like them and aren't saying it. They worked great both times I used them, and they don't require any cutting and rewelding of the frame, or buying some new bigger bolt. If you don't care about how big the bolt is, or if the head of the nut is the same size as all the rest, just tap the hole for a larger bolt. That is easiest. I would have a body sehop tear into the frame just to weld a new nut to the inside. that will cost way too much. <_<
 
im just not too sure i would trust some "helicoil" or "JBweld" on something as important as the suspension components
especially since he plans to autoX/road course with the car
suspansion failure under those conditions can get UGLY
 
helicoils work really good, just like new threads. JBweld, I would not try, unless you don't ever want that bar coming off ever again.
 
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