Super Light 16-18" Wheels

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1976CVCC

Junior Member
Hey guys, I'm having a hell of a time finding an aftermarket wheel with a 4 x 120mm bolt pattern for my 76 CVCC. Does anybody even make one? If not, i'm wondering what route to take to get some 16 or 17" wheels on this badboy. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I'm trying to make this thing as light and fuel efficient as possible.
 
Try some European cars... I know that the Subaru RX that my roommate had (4x110) wore Peugeot wheels. Maybe another Euro make would share the right size with your car.
 
I might be forced to keep it classic style, but I'd still like to see what I could do as far as fuel efficiency is concerned, and lighter wheels wouldn't hurt. Even if I could get 13" aluminum ones that'd be great. Maybe I can get something custom drilled.
 
Originally posted by 1976CVCC@Oct 25 2003, 04:44 PM
I might be forced to keep it classic style, but I'd still like to see what I could do as far as fuel efficiency is concerned, and lighter wheels wouldn't hurt. Even if I could get 13" aluminum ones that'd be great. Maybe I can get something custom drilled.
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Light 17's will still kill your gas millage on that thing, not to mention they would look rediculus on it. Dont they come with 12's stock? Look at some pandasport wheels in like 13's.
 
First off, your best bet would be to swap over to a 4X100 bolt pattern. You can do this a few different ways. Reason for doing this is that there's about 9813247987163248917263498712634 wheels out there with a 4X100 pattern.

Secondly, anything larger than 14" is just plainly overkill on these cars for several reasons. 1) Brake size. You really don't need anything larger than a 10" rotor and some good pads to stop this car because it's so damn light. Anything larger is purely glitter and not functional. 2) Rolling diameter. Stock tires were 155/80- 12. If you had a 17" wheel, you'd need a 205/30 tire. There's no such thing. With a 13" wheel, you can run a 215/50- 13 tire or a 185/60- 13 tire and still be within 0.1% of your original rolling diameter. 3) Rotational weight. As someone touched on before, big wheels weigh more. Big tires weigh even more. It's something like a one lb. reduction in overall rotational mass is equivalent to a 5 HP increase.

I'm picking up a '77 Civic 1200 next weekend and will be building it over the course of the next year or so. If you want to see some crazy shit, stick around. I have a welder and know how to use it. ;)
 
I'm talking with a representative at Superlite right now about custom 3 piece lightweight billet wheels. I initially asked for a quote for a 13" x 5" wheel. It wasn't my intention to go with a big wheel just to go big, I really am just shooting for maximal MPG and figured nobody would even be making an aftermarket wheel that's a 13". Apparently I'm wrong, Superlite says they can go all the way down to a 10" wheel, drilled to any bolt pattern I want. The stock 155/80-13 may just be the tire I end up sticking with, unless I can go thinner than that and increase economy even more. Any opinion as to what tire would be the absolute smallest I could go with? ...I'll definitely be sticking around for you welding trickery, as I may end up needing to use some of your insights due to the fact I might end up swapping in a different motor that has more aftermarket parts available to further increase economy. Right now it seems the 84-87 CRX motor can be picked up dirt cheap and there are parts readily available. I'm considering going with a tiny duration/lift cam to get awesome torque down low and sacrifice top end horsepower that won't be used anyway.
 
If you've been talking with the Superlite reps, you know how much those wheels cost. For those that don't, depending on the model, you're looking at between $350 and $550 PER WHEEL. Dude, that's not too fucking economical if you ask me. Swapping in a motor? WHY? The CVCC is as good as you're going to get for fuel economy in that platform. Sacrificing top end HP for low end torque? That's just wrong. You don't have any top end to begin with. The Civic was DESIGNED as an economy car. By doing what you're doing, you're stating that you can beat Honda at it's own game. Forgive me if I don't wait with abated breath.

Honestly, if maximum economy is your goal, just go buy a Metro/ Swift. It'll be less work and more reliable in the long run. Or, buy a GoPed.
 
I havn't got a quote back yet from Superlite, though 550 per wheel for a 13" x 5" wheel sounds a bit steep obviously and it's not something I'm willing to spend. I almost did buy a Metro, but they really don't have nearly as much character as a '76 CVCC, so the extra 10mpg+ wasn't worth it. Though the car doesn't make much horsepower it DOES have a "topend", as does every motor, even diesels. That car can rev beyond 5000RPM, which isn't super high, but it is beyond where I'll be taking it, so yes a cam designed for more torque may be functional, as would high compression pistons and an improved exhaust. Honda built that car for thousands of people and not just me, so yes I think I could improve the efficiency of the car, especially now, 27 years later. I'm new to Hondas, but I'm certainly not to cars. How stupid would I sound if I tried to tell you that you couldn't make an Integra Type R faster because you aren't going to beat Honda/Acura at their own game. Give me a break man, i'm looking for some tips not a damn scolding.
 
high compression needs higher octane fuel to resist detonation. once again, you are going after this the wrong way.
 
you already have ultimate fuel efficiency. no offence but, youve got a tiny car with a tiny engine and tiny stock wheels. if you want to save more fuel, gut it! take out every panel and acessory you dont need. its free and it will make your car faster too.
 
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