time to start shopping!

[Taco15]

alright guys i need HS's opinions and suggestions again. As some may know i blew my tranny awhile back.
I'm starting to shop around now and have to go BIGGER AND BETTER than what i had before. Everything was stock,including motor mounts. What i need is help making up my mind on whick parts to go with. I'm asking all of you who have had previous or current experiences with similar parts/brands. Lets not forget that this crx be racing at the track and at least 2 races a week in town, So this car will be driven hard MONEY IS SOMEWHAT AN ISSUE BUT I HAVE ALL THE TIME IN WORLD TO BUILD THIS THING BACK. NO CUTTING CORNERS!

what kind of axles should i get? i need something that can handle the max hp/tq. for all motor
what about clutch? is exedy 6 puck good for street/strip racing?
what size flywheel? I'm think 11.5-12.5. Maybe fidanza? Act?


thanks for all your replies

 

[phunky.buddha]

If you're driving hard and you're drag racing- you need to bulletproof everything. I can't give you advice on the axles, but go with a Quaife differential, go with brand new synchros straight from Honda, and get the lightest flywheel you can stand. I LOVED my 7.5 pound Fidanza. It was VERY streetable, and gave awesome response.

Axles- get something weaker than your differential. You don't want to go with aftermarket bulletproof axles and run a stock LSD, because you want the axles to break before the diff. They're MUCH easier to replace.

Clutch- for all motor, you don't need a puck clutch. Hell, for most streetable turbo setups in Civics, you don't need a puck clutch either. Go with a full face disc and a really strong pressure plate. You'll still launch awesome once you get used to the new clutch, and you'll save yourself a good bit of drive line shock.

Flywheel- again, lightest possible.

 

[Taco15]

alright i have a friend who wanted to sell me his 8lb? fidanza. But i always thought that too light isnt good. I was steered away from those light flywheel due to the neg. hype. I guess i'll buy his flywheel. good theres one thing out of the way
Now as far as the axles i should be ok with new stock rplacements? heres my problem. when i lowered the car my axles started spewing grease everywhere. we looked at them on the lift and could see that once i lowered the crx the axles where at an angle,therefore streaching the boots. Could it be that i had the wrong axles? its possible since it wouldnt be the first time this has happend. If i have to i'll put it back to stock height.
which clutch do you recommend?
All thyis items fall under the 90-93 integra right? axles,flywheel clutch?

thanks Calesta for your helpful input

 

[phunky.buddha]

8 pounds isn't too light at all. You're just getting hype from people who have never owned a flywheel that light, know nothing about physics, and are swayed by people on Honda-Tech that don't know anything. I've never seen a post from someone that said "I own an 8 pounder and I don't like it." Have you?



Stock replacement axles will be fine as long as you're not clutch dropping for your launches. If you are, you're going to break everything in your driveline if you don't spend some serious cash beefing things up. Feathering the clutch is the best way out of the box unless you've completely bulletproofed the drivetrain, and that gets expensive. If the axles were at that extreme of an angle when you lowered your CRX, you lowered it way too much. I'm not sure off the top of my head which axles you need for the B swap, so you'll have to look that up somewhere else. FYI- the best axle position for driveline strength and preventing binding is to have them straight all the way across. You can get plenty low even with the axles parallel to the ground.

Clutch- all motor, I like the ACT HD/SS. It has more than enough grip for pretty much any all motor build, and it's very easy to drive on the street on a daily basis. If you want more grip, just get the XT/SS. You get a heavier pedal, but a little more "snap." Just be careful with the launches or you're going to break something. The best clutch to get is the one with the lowest amount of holding torque for the application that you need- that way you get the smoothest engagement, the best control over clutch feathering, and less chance of shocking the driveline. All you need to do for a snappier launch is to let the clutch out faster- you don't need a clutch that's too strong for your car, it's just wasted money.

 

[Taco15]

well the springs i had before were integra's, remember the pic i posted when i first joined? remember the wheel gap? look at my profile pics to see. It looked like a freaking rally car.lol well i put skunk2 springs. that lowered it 1.5 and 2.0 inches. KYB shocks. nothing drastic. Maybe the prevoius owner had the wrong axles.

thanks for the clutch info. i'l look into those. sorry if i sound like an idiot,i just DONT KNOW what to look for. Thanks Calesta. It sounds like you know what i want to achieve.you.ve always helped me out.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Hmm. I don't see anything in your profile except for some dude in a hat and a very pretty blonde.

Maybe the previous owner did put in the wrong axles- but like I said, I don't remember which ones you're supposed to put in. A 2 inch drop shouldn't screw your axle angle so much that it's going to rip your boots.

No problem sounding like an idiot. Everyone has to start somewhere, and I'm in a good mood today (don't have to work!).



Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[MikeBergy]

ACT makes great clutches. Rocketmotorsports and Kteller were backing action clutches as well. I've never had either, but they both have very good reps. I own a sachs clutch, and it is nice. Never slipped, pedal pressure is nice. I own an 8 lb flywheel... LOVE IT. It's made by AASCO...not a big name in japanese cars, but a big name in european racing, most of the apps are for porsche. It's nice, and is VERY resposive. I don't think you can get a flywheel that is TOO light, performance wise, but if it isn't designed right, a lightweight flywheel, might not be able to take the power. I don't see that being a problem for you, as you are not even running 250 hp. So...the lighter, the better IMO. If you drive manual tranny cars on a normal basis, you should have no problems with the rotational inertia, or lack thereof, from the flywheel. I have heard the driveshaft shop making good stuff, but have never dealt with them directly.

For transmission, do a JDM ITR transmission, and do a hydraulics swap into your car. I've read the procedure, and it doesn't look too difficult. Then you get stronger a stronger transmission, and the pedal engagement is much more linear than the cable tranny. Way better pedal feel IMO. Swap in a quaiffe, and sell me your OEM LSD...

 

[Taco15]

Quoted post[/post]]
Hmm. I don't see anything in your profile except for some dude in a hat and a very pretty blonde.

Maybe the previous owner did put in the wrong axles- but like I said, I don't remember which ones you're supposed to put in. A 2 inch drop shouldn't screw your axle angle so much that it's going to rip your boots.

No problem sounding like an idiot. Everyone has to start somewhere, and I'm in a good mood today (don't have to work!).



Let me know if you need anything else.

well im back again. with bad news. I just quit my job at the Home Depot I talked to my attorney this morning and was advise to quit until my citizenship stuff gets situated. Reason why is because i lied about being a citizen, and presented false documentation i know its wrong but i needed a new job quit since i just moved and lost my previous construction job. I also did it cuz i like home depot and didnt want to get them involved with my problems..........ok i'm ranting sorry.
Mike i trhought about a itr tranny but man i love my short gears. Before it blew up i wanted to get a itr lsd. I want a newer tranny to save me headaches but man i dont want to spend more than i have to to convert to hydro. If you can find me a itr tranny for cheap hell yeah i'll jump onit.. in the meantime i'll stick with a ys1. well looks like i'll on the comp more often now Damn i need to find a job by monday.

heres what the wheel gap used to look like

 

[MikeBergy]

Bah, that sucks man. You can pick up an ITR tranny for under a grand these days. Keep in mind that although you are paying more, you are newer transmission, both in terms of technology AND mileage. You could probably pick the stuff up to do the hydro conversion for 50-100 bucks at the junkyard. 1) Set of integra/ civic pedals (obviously hydro pedals)
2) Clutch MC.
3) Clutch hydro lines.

Good luck with the job situation.

 

[Taco15]

thanks man.

 

[hosmer]

Build a tranny...

99-00 Si 1st & 2nd
GSR 3rd & 4th
LS 5th
ITR final
Quaife LSD

 

[Taco15]

Quoted post[/post]]
Build a tranny...

99-00 Si 1st & 2nd
GSR 3rd & 4th
LS 5th
ITR final
Quaife LSD

its very possible, i mean i have all the gears. they are all good. The only thing is, who can put it together? A rebuild can run pricy. I figured that if i'm gonna spend over 500 for the labor +syncros and a new 3-4 gear. i might as well buy a used ys1 or type R. not to mention the lsd or a new casing...can i use an ls tranny casing?

 

[hosmer]

yeah, you can use an LS case....but, if I remember correctly (if you use a Quaife diff) you have to get one for a Del Sol B16/92-93 GSR, not the 94-00 GSR


I believe it fits the 90-00 LS tranny cases..check their website and double check, but I'm 99% sure

 

[Taco15]

anybody here on HS that can build a tranny? i supply the goods. They just build it.

 

[94CivicSlow]

Yea check out AMS-Tuning.com the owner MAtt Can assemble you a honda transmission

 

[Taco15]

Quoted post[/post]]
Yea check out AMS-Tuning.com the owner MAtt Can assemble you a honda transmission

thanks man. i'll check them out i'm look9ing for sycros and an lsd. I found a guy who can build it for 33 bucks aside from his transmission job. I thionks that the route. The only deals i have found are the type R and ys1 lsd's for 1000 or so. Should i buy oem sycros from honda or carbon coated ones online? i hear the CC syncros are better. so far i'm looking at 100 bucks for an LS casing,500 for a quaife lsd. And labor.300. Then lets add another 300 for random stuff that might come up. that about the same price for an already assemble with factory lsd. damnit I gues its better to build one since it will all be brand new.