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Type-R help and Ecu

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by wolfdawg2, Jan 21, 2008.

  1. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    I am running a type-R with a JDM p73 in my 97cope. I need to know how to tell A JDM p73 to a US p73 and one more thing If I was going to use a GSR p72 or the US p73 what would I need to do to run it with my type-R to pass the OBD2 test:confused: Any info would help out a lot. Thanks Wolfy:cool:
     
  2. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    well to make it obd2 you'd need an obd2 distributor and obd2 ecu. i couldnt say specifics as i've never converted a motor like this. just read about it.

    to make it a stock usdm ecu fuel map, you need to resocket your ecu. the chip would need to be flashed or burned with a .bin file. you can try to find the stock maps on pgmfi.org. resocketing your ecu requires soldering.

    i use hondata but there are alot of different programs to flash a ecu chip with. read up on pgmfi.org for more detail. i'll throw uberdata, aem ems, crome, and megasquirt out there because everyone loves to shout out the others. pgmfi is your headquarters for ecu socketing.
     
  3. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    hey

    My car is already OBD2 97cope. The type-R is obd2 but you can not read the JDM p73 with a hand scanner and it will not pass the obd2 test. All I what to know is how to tell a p73 JDM from a US p73. Also If I would use a GSR p72 ecu or US p73 would there any thing I would need to do to make it work With out having any cel come up. Any info on that would help Thank Wolfy:cool:
     
  4. killercannible

    killercannible Senior Member

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    All type r motors are obd2;) What you need to do to pass emissions is run an obd2a usdm p73 and make sure you have a crank positions sensor(its on the oil pump, you will have to buy a usdm oil pump and sensor). Also you can't have any check engine lights so you have to hook up all your o2 sensors and knock sensor ect. However, i gotta tell ya if you have no cel and they get an error from your jdm ecu(they will) they may give you a tailpipe test and call it a day which will save you tons of time and money.
     
  5. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    hey

    How about the gsr ecu will that work to???
     
  6. killercannible

    killercannible Senior Member

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    You'll probably throw a code because the gsr has the secondary throttle bodies but you could try it.
     
  7. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    hey

    Yea I am going to try that gsr one first. I looking at a gsr and I only seen one sensor that my type-R don't have. So I am hoping to to wire that one up and make it work.
     
  8. N/AisBEST

    N/AisBEST New Member

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    if you just need it to pass the scanner thing then why dont you put the stock ecu that came with the car?? just an idea do you need to go thru emission or something??
     
  9. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    hey

    Yea I need to pass the OBD2 plug in test. And my old ecu will not run the type-r. I looking for some one that would know what ecu to run and how to wire and trick it up b/c the USDM-R and GSR has one or two sensors that the JDM-R don't have. So anyone out there help me out. And One more thing any one know how to tell a JDM-p73 from a USDM-p73 Thanks Wolfy:cool:
     
  10. wolfdawg2

    wolfdawg2 Wolf dawg

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    help

    Ok I found some info that will help me with my type-r but I still need one more thing.

    All US OBD2 DOHC VTEC ecu’s look for a crank sensor or CKF sensor that is located on the oil pump of US OBD2 B-series engines. JDM OBD2 B-series engines do not have this sensor, hence the reason your motor is missing the CKF sensor.
    There’s an easy wire mod you can do to trick the US P72 ecu into thinking the CKF sensor is wired in.

    Here is the thing. If I use a p72 out of a gsr on my JDM type-r and do this trick what els would I need to do to make it run right with out having any cel. Some one toled me that I will have a code for the secondary butterfly. is there any thing els I am missing and how would I trick it? Thanks Wolfy :cool:
     
  11. custompainter

    custompainter drive it like U stole it

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    SYNOPSIS

    This article describes how to trick a U.S. OBD2a or OBD2b ecu into thinking a CKF sensor is wired in when there actually is no CKF sensor on the engine.

    What is the CKF sensor?
    The CKF is the Crank Fluctuation Sensor.
    On all 96+ (OBD2) Honda/Acura vehicles, this sensor is integrated onto the oil pump.
    (CKF images soon)

    This trick is mainly aimed to help hybriders who are using a U.S. OBD2a/b ecu in their vehicle, but their motors are lacking a CKF sensor. For example, running an JDM OBD2 engine in a US 96+ vehicle but retaining the US OBD2 ecu. For those that don't know, when using a US OBD2 ecu and the CKF sensor is not wired in, the engine runs like total crap. This trick basically taps the CKF into the CKP signal.

    This wire trick will save you money (around $300) and headaches!

    PROCEDURE


    1. Please refer to the ecu pin out page respective to your OBD2 type and take note of the CKF pin locations:
      OBD2a pin out schematics
      OBD2b pin out schematics
    2. Get 4 Scotch-lock/tap splicers
      Sometimes dubbed 'quick splice', these can be real life savers.
      Get yourself 2 of these bad boys and a pair of pliers for the squeezing-splicing portion of the job.

      [​IMG]
    3. Locate ECU pins

      OBD2a Users:
      This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
      Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
      [​IMG]
      Now locate pinout C1 (CKFP) and C4 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      Then locate pin C11 (CKFM) and C14 (CYPM) and quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      That's it!
      Your finished OBD2a quick-splice job should look something like this:
      [​IMG]

      OBD2b Users:
      This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
      Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
      [​IMG]
      Now locate pinout C22 (CKFP) and C29 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      Then locate pin C30 (CYPM) and C31 (CKFM); quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      That's it!
      Your finished OBD2b quick-splice job should look something like this:
      [​IMG]
    ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

    None. CONTRIBUTIONS / PROPS


    Special thanks to THIS THREAD on Honda-tech and to the poster omahaturbocivic who exploited this trick!!!
     
  12. custompainter

    custompainter drive it like U stole it

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    SYNOPSIS

    This article covers the 'Code 91' (P-code P0453) issue associated with OBD2 civic and integra vehicles.

    This problem stems from the type of ecu being used in certain OBD2 civic & integra's. When performing an engine swap on certain 96-00 civic's & 96-01 integra's, depending on what US OBD2 ecu is being used, you may get this pesky code 91 (fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor) problem. Some 96-98 civics & 96-99 integra's do not have this FTP sensor in the fuel tank which poses as a problem.

    This partial list below shows which civic & integra vehicles are FTP equipped and non-equipped:

    Vehicles equipped with an FTP sensor:
    1996: Civic EX / D16Y8 (All coupes), Integra GSR & possibly LS
    1997: Civic HX D16Y5 (All coupes; California sedan: LX)
    1997: Civic LX D16Y7 (California coupe; California sedan: LX)
    1997: Civic EX D16Y8 (All coupes; California sedan: LX)
    1998: All Civic models
    1999: All Civic models(the above list came from a Helms manual)

    Vehicles un-equipped with an FTP sensor:
    1996: Civic DX/CX hatchbacks, Integra RS
    1997: ?
    1997: ?
    1997: ?
    1998: ?
    1999: CX/DX hatchbacksPretty screwy, eh? This is why there is plenty of confusion on Honda message forums regarding the code 91/FTP sensor. I've seen numerous times people say "The FTP only started in 99" or "None of the '96 models had them". It's all a bit confusing, but there are some solutions for this problem. Read on. SUGGESTED FIXES


    1. Change the ecu
      The easiest fix, is to use an ECU (keeping within your particular OBD2 version) that doesn't look for FTP sensor. Mainly, a JDM ecu would be of choice, because they are programmed not to look for an FTP sensor.
      NOTE: using a JDM OBD2 ecu will not allow you to pass smog, in California at least.
    2. Change the gas tank
      This is the next best possible solution for alleviation of code 91. Swap out your gas tank for one respective your vehicle type, that has an FTP sensor. Such as running a 99 Si coupe fuel tank on a 97 civic CX or DX. You will more than likley have to wire in the FTP sensor along with adding the FTP equipped gas tank too.
    3. Fool the ecu
      We fool the ECU by providing a similar voltage that the FTP would normally send -- this happens to be around 2.5v. You need to acquire a 10k linear potentiometer: Radio Shack Part Number 271-1715.
      The outter 2 pins are going to be +5v reference and ground (does not matter which), while the center pin will be your output feeding back to the ECU pinout.

      (Before you hook up the pot's center pin to the ECU, use a multimeter to adjust the output to 2.5v.)

      Here are the 96-98 civic & integra ECU pin assignments:
      D10: +5v
      D15: FTP input
      D11: GroundHere are the 99-00 civic & 99-01 integra ECU pin assignments:
      C28: +5v
      A29: FTP input
      C18: Ground
    4. Convert to OBD1
      This will totally eliminate any code 91 issues altogether. This is the most expensive way out of all 4 of these solutions because you would obviously need to purchase an OBD1 ecu and OBD2a or OBD2b to OBD1 ecu jumper harness. OBD1 programming does not look for an FTP sensor at all.
    5. The Trey Way
      I stumbled upon the 'Trey way' (as I like to put it) after reading his OBD2a EK B-series swap article. He mentions a temporary trick in defeating the Code 91 issue. An excerpt from his swap article mentions this:
      " I found a way to get around the code but isn't a true fix. This only happens when the car has been sitting for a long time like over night. You have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the accessory position (radio on, but the car is off), and count to 10 slowly then crank the car. That will pressurize the fuel lines and the code will not come on."
    ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

    There have been reports, that while this fix works on a relatively full tank, empty tanks seem to trigger a code. Even though you've now provided the input, sometimes the ECU looks for a change in that input and you're providing something constant now. CONTRIBUTIONS / PROPS


    Special thanks to Honda-tech members EE_Chris and Trey (Sullivan) for providing these handy fixes!
     
  13. SingleCammer

    SingleCammer New Member

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    i want the use the potentiometer trick to fool my ecu
    i have the potentiometer but i dont know how to
    hook it up
     
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