Uberdata Help Please

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reckedracing

reckedracing

TTIWWOP
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Looking through some uberdata bin's and I'm confused...

I'm looking at the brett-final.bin by xenocron, as found in his directory for .bin's

Why are some cells red and other blue?
Why does it appear that every other column is not used?
what in the holy hell is going on in the 2d graphs...?
the ignition graphs make sense, nice and smooth, but the fuel graphs are all over the fucking place, it doesn't make any sense...

anyone know of a FAQ i can read? or perhaps someone can help me understand more? i've been looking on pgmfi.org with little success in finding the answers i need.

thanks
 
TurboEdit is a much better program for obd-0, along with BRE. I didn't know that uberdata was even supported anymore...
 
well fuck me...
god damn it

crome is OBD1?
crome is shareware as well?
time to go check out that program...

i'm about to order the innovative wideband, but i wanna see how the programs work before i go ordering a burner and ostrich...

B did you already sell all your shit?
 
crome basic can do everything crome pro can except for data logging and "auto tune" which doesn't work that great anyway. It's not needed. I rarely used it when tuning cars, and never when i made base maps, and i've yet to get a complaint on my skill. As long as you can watch the tach, map/boost, and wideband all at the same time, and know what you are doing, you will know where to fix the problem and in what way.

I used the LM-1 wideband (the lc-1 upgrade basically) and i like it.
the ostrich and burn1 are my other tools of choice.
 
maptrace is awesome though, if you don't want to have to guess where you want to change the map. It will log afr's in the correct spot on the map, which is definitely nice. You still have to use your brain when tuning though, because the honda ecu will interpolate between the map cells given a certain rpm and MAP reading, which is why autotune doesn't really work that well. It doesn't work well on Turboedit, anyway, and I think the maptrace and autotune features in TE are written based on input from people that used or are using Crome, so I assume they operate in a similar manner.

And +1 for the LM-1 and Ostrich being nice tools. I own both and have had no problems with them.
 
As long as you can watch the tach, map/boost, and wideband all at the same time, and know what you are doing, you will know where to fix the problem and in what way.

I used the LM-1 wideband (the lc-1 upgrade basically) and i like it.
Click to expand...
so if i have a basic understanding of maps and how they work I should be able to figure out what i'm doing right? as well as lots of research and reading of course...

and why is the LM1 better than the LC1?
i wanted to get the LC1 with the digital gauge...
bad move?
 
you think I should have chris harris do my solder work?

i have a very basic solder iron, and no sucker or any of that shit...
one needs auto to manual conversion and the other just needs to be socketed...
both P28
one for a D16Z6 w/boost
and one for an H22 with STR intake, and prob boost down the road...
 
i suck at soldering. i don't have a steady hand at all. i bought all my ecus pre-chipped from some one else or had them chipped by someone else.

the lm-1 has the display right on the unit. way better for portable tuning. no need to run gagues. and if you have multiple cars, i'd suggest this too.
Leaving the wideband in the car all the time is stupid anyway. once you're tuned, take it out. you don't need it any more.
 
i don't have a steady hand at all.
Click to expand...
yea, this is my problem too... shakey mcgee

the lm-1 has the display right on the unit. way better for portable tuning. no need to run gagues. and if you have multiple cars, i'd suggest this too.
Leaving the wideband in the car all the time is stupid anyway. once you're tuned, take it out. you don't need it any more.
Click to expand...
hmmm, well i was planning to leave the wideband in the car and pull my A/F gauge cause its junk compared to a wideband...
when the teg is ready for ECU work then i should be confident on the civic not grenading and i'll pull the wideband...

my civic has a new exedy OEM replacement clutch that is NOT handling the boost well at all... and my VSS is going ape shit, working then not, and still getting a occasional ECT code... i'm thinking its the G101 grounds, i hope...?
but i'd really like to push the IHI further than 6psi...
 
You don't want to leave a wideband in your car, it's just stupid to have in there oonce you've tuned. +1 to getting the cheesy A/F guage outta there though, you'll save a couple ounces of weight, lol.

As for soldering the stuff yourself, if you aren't confident that you can do it, then get Chris to do it, he's good, and doesn't charge an arm and a leg. Get a datalogging port added into there while you are at it.
 
You don't want to leave a wideband in your car, it's just stupid to have in there oonce you've tuned.
Click to expand...
why is that stupid? i'd prefer to keep an eye on my A/F ratios...
the same reason I have an oil pressure gauge...
sure the OIL light will tell me if I have no pressure... but i'd like to keep an eye on it anyway...
you'd suggest i leave it sit in my closet?
lol

Get a datalogging port added into there while you are at it.
Click to expand...
i was planning on doing that... but i would need crome pro to datalog right?

and i'm looking in crome and not noticing any columns with a positive map sensor reading... am i doing something wrong?
 
burn your chip, and your a/f's won't change unless something breaks, like an injector. but you'll know it the instant it happens, and no gauge is going to save you
 
You have to go into plugins, then boost tools. I'm sure you can download a boost basemap for Crome from pgmfi.org, then tune off that. And as for watching the AFRs, as Brian said, once you tune it, nothing's gonna change unless your electronics go haywire or something breaks. But if you are going to have it in all the time, The LC-1 with a good wideband guage is a good choice, or get a PLX unit with the digital LCD, and forget the guage.
 
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ok, when i go to add the advance boost controls in a P28 .bin it says its not supported and won't be in the future...
does this mean i need to run something other than a P28 ecu?
or can i still burn whatever chip to go into a P28?
 
I've never seen or used any other tuning programs like Uber or TurboEdit, but Crome is fairly easy to use. The creator did a pretty good job of keeping a lot of it in plain english.

If you need your ECU socketted, I can help you out if you want. I can have it done in a day.
 
boost tools are on the p30 map only.

open up a new from p30
add the boost options.
then do your fuel multipliers.
cut .75 ignition per psi to start

and start tuning.
 
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