Unbalanced Crank Symptoms

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Hahaha. I don't have to prove shit to you. The people here know that I know what I'm talking about. If you look around, you'll find a topic about my first build. Your due diligence, sir. Clearances, B-Series and D-Series, take your pick; Gallery

Names and numbers? So you can harass them with your ignorance? I don't think so. :D

edit:
By the way. I never said you didn't know how to put an engine together. I just said that you don't know the theory behind what you're doing. It's pretty obvious that you don't, too. So you really need to get your panties out of a bunch and maybe take a midol or two.

My man.
 
Okay I asked for help, not an argument over this thread. Well since you both pretty much told me I shouldn't need to get my crank balanced, I'm going on to my next step. LS_VTEC you told me since I found no scoring or discoloring I shouldn't need to balance it and Blanco you told me I'm only building a beefed up street car that it would be a good idea but it won't hurt anything if you don't. So I thank you both for answering my question/s. BTW LS_VTEC no offense but pistons do expand but not by much. I even asked a machinist from NAPA and he said my piston to wall clearance is .0035" for those pistons from their manufacturing specifications and he said otherwise its only like .001-2" for OEM pistons. 1 more quick easy question. Are honda sleeves wet or dry and if I had to guess I think it would be dry because the dry type sleeve is pressed into a full cylinder that compeletly covers the water jacket and the sleeve has the block to support it. I remember that from college which I am still attending. Right now my GPA is 3.0 which I think is BS cause I know someone else who worked on his truck and his truck only for the whole semester and gets a fucking A. Sucking up to the teacher I would say, the sad thing is, is that he don't do his own homework and nearly guesses on the tests. We already covered Engines, Steering and Suspension, Brakes and Manual Drive Train & Axles. Pretty easy but hard stuff IMO. Another sad part that my teacher said to us is that he actually SAID that you need a special tool to turn the crankshaft while being installed in the vehicle. OMG did I ever laugh, so I took a 1/2" drive 17mm deep well socket and turned it myself. He is a good teacher and all but he favors the wrong students, for one no teacher should favor any student. Thats Central Lakes College for ya!!!!
 
Its a dry sleeve. I know that forged pistons expand, but you dont see them expand where there will be a threat to the cylinder walls or the P-C clearance. The whole silica deal is just funny to me personally...when's the last time you heard a race team leader say... "damn, silica caused the piston in cylinder #2 to expand so much that its grinding up the cylinder walls"?? Doesn't happen. When shit like that actually does happen, its usually caused by a spun bearing or broken rod bolt/s. You need almost TWICE the combustion chamber pressure and TWICE the heat produced to actually affect that piston severely(forged). I run oem pistons for NA setups, just my prefference.
 
jt, build your engine, than take it apart to measure the clearances in the rod bearings again, than replace all the bearings once again because re-using bearings is a "no-no". LOL this thread is filled with so much BS I can smell it. Not for nothing, but when revving high, you WOULD want more clearance. Less wear on the bearings for one, and you will be less likely to spin bearings.

Just build your engine the way you see fit. Personally if there is no markings on the rod journals or scoring whatsoever, and there is no crankshaft end play, than dont balance the crankshaft. Just change the front/rear seals with new oem seals. Than, if you see fit, balance the reciprocating assembly and have it all installed and torqued properly. When building a street car, "silica" isn't exactly what engine builders do their measurements by. Unless your working for fucking Gary Gardella or Kubo just to mention a couple names, you shouldnt have to be worrying about it. Bottom line, your not building a race engine that will only see 1 season and your not making the power that those engines are.
 
Ya im building a F/I B18a with around 15psi so ill need aftermarket internals.

This is what you need to do....

1) Have a machine shop re-sleeve it and bore the cylinders to the desired bore for the pistons you will be running. When sleeving (which IS expensive), it also includes your other machining such as hot tanking and honing so that will be included.(most machinist's includes it -- roughly 1000 bucks)

2) Get some pistons/rods. I prefer JE/Eagle for pistons/rods. Look to get a compression ratio of around 9:1. That ratio will be perfect for LS.

3)Have the LS head re-done because it flows like ASS. You can have it mildly ported, but even then it will flow, maybe like a stock b16 head, which IS better than the stock LS. Replace valvetrain with stiffer valve springs, dont run oversized valves, just stick to the oem size. Retainers, and keep your stock LS cams they will work fine unless you wanna spend $$ on aftermarket cams like crower or even a custom grind(requires matching valvetrain components). Use arp for ALL your studs/bolts. Change all gaskets with new oem.

4) do a fuel system setup to accomodate your power goal. This all depends on how much power you want to make.
rc 550's, walbro 255lph pump, higher volume fuel rail, FPR and a FP gauge should get you started out and will be sufficient for 15psi.

5) put together a turbo setup. I suggest 50-60 trim turbonetics. Parting it out will be cheaper in the long run, just takes patience.

6) Get an engine management you will need it. With larger injectors, the engine will not even start on the stock ecu let alone run. Do some research on which ems would suit your setup for the price you can afford. Plenty of routes to go here, aem ems, hondata etc. I use crome-pro.

7) get it tuned.
 
LMAO who the fuck is JT. 100% sure my name is Justin or just call me JC. I already got my Block hot tanked, bored and the manufacturers gave my machinist the p/w clearance so no worries there. I bought CP pistons, Eagle Rods and yes they come with arp rod bolts. I already installed everything and plastigage all my journals which came to very good specs. Who ever mentioned I used the same bearings. I'm not that dumb and I bought ACL standard bearings. I already knew the LS head flows like ass and as a matter of fact my mother even knew that. I know someone who can 3 angle valve job my head for me including mirror finish and hot tank for $350 shipped which I dont have the budget for ATM. I will buy a 255 lph Walbro pump, I was already thinking of RC 550cc injectors. I was thinking about buying the Garrett 60-1 .48 a/r turbo for my goal which is 300whp.
 
Lol wow I couldn't even solve what jt was abbreviated for and it was from my own username. Hey I have another question for you blanco. I am also in the process of fixing the guys car that has been sitting for 6 years. I finally got the head off and the walls look pretty good but at the top of the walls where the ridge is, to me it just seems to be carbon build up and im not sure if ill need to hone it or try to get the carbon off???? All he wanted me to do is get it back to normal which would be the complete LS engine and before it was the LS/Vtec. I was going to expect some kind of build up or corrosion in the cylinders but what do I know cause I never had that experience. Any idears?
 
wouldn't honing be the same thing as de-glazing????

No. Deglazing is proccess that removes the glazed layering that is built up during engine use. Honing simply sets a cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls for lubricating purposes. Honing is also good to do with mostly all engines (some newer ones require a flat smooth surface), to help the rings seat properly.
 
oh alright gotcha. Ill be pulling that block out soon and sending it to the machine shop for hot tank and deglazing and probably honing also.
 
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