Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by pissedoffsol, Dec 18, 2002.
if the CEL is on, pull the code!
you are in limp mode if it won't rev past 3K... honda made these computers so if a ton of shit went bad you can still drive it home. pull the code. we'll help from thererrrr
code please. . . . . anyone . . . . .helllloooooo?
there is no code!
It stays "ON" without blinking!
There is no way to jump a PR3 ecu that i know of.
It started to kill my injectors too, i forgot to mention that. Yes i changed resistor boxes, twice. The accord resistor box. I checked the civic resistor box, but both have the same specs. Don't know if that'll make a diffrence.
what year and model is the PR3 from?
read the article on pulling codes.
it will tell you how to do it, then do it and give us the code.
According to the chart bellow, I have an 88-91 ecu. The PR3 came out from the integras of that generation.
I have 2 ecu's, one is the 901 and the other is a J00
88-91 ecus (PM6, PR4, PW0, PR3, PM7):
5spd = 000, 001, 002, A00, A01, A10, J00, J001, C01, C00
Auto = J51, J50, A50, A51, 901, A60, C50, C51, X30, A80
omg ... mine is starting to do the SAME thing exactly as you described and i have a pr3 in my b16a crx... EXACT SAME THING!!! CEL stays on and red LED light on the ecu STAYS ON!!!!! everyone listen it stays on!!! it does not blink... its has fucked up idle and wont go past 3K rpm... and help is appreciated
As i stated before, the only code on the ecu's window is a steady RED LED, NO BLINKS AT ALL!
I checked your article sections and this is what it says:
For 88-91 Honda's and 86-93 Acura's:
The ECU's on these cars actually have a neat little window right on the computer case. No need to jump here- just turn it to on, and watch it right there through that window.
Link is right here>> http://www.hondaswap.com/articles/viewer.php?id=20
Wow! that was a fast reply
it looks to me like you and i are SOL cuz i looked all over the internet last night and found nothing on this situation... i am thinking maybe a bad ECU... i am going to test another pr3 on monday to see if that is the problem. i'll keep you posted.
Please bro! Quz at this point, i am not gonna buy a 3rd ecu. I got 2 and they both do the same thing
what the hell are we supposed to do then?
Burn our cars down
i'll tell you what... i am not far from it... i HATE electrical problems... i'd rather have a blown fucking engine because all you have to do is replace it but nooooo... not with electrical problems... you'll never figure out electrical problems. FUCK! i feel like seeing how fast my car can go and driving into a fucking 3-foot thick titanium wall.
lol! I feel your pain man!
I'm about to throw myself off a clif!
I turned on the car today and all 4 cylinders are firing up. Looks like the injectors are NOT burning up! Something must disable them one by one.
This shit must be realy bad if the ecu is disabling the injectors at this point. If thats a normal function of the ecu that is.....
so you are having trouble with injectors?
reisistor box good?
Yes, each injector starts chutting off untill it stays idling on 2 or one injector. Then i'll turn off the motor and it won't want to turn on again till the next day or so. I thought they were frying, but they don't. I guess there's some sort of relay or ecu signal that disables them! i don't know.
Either way, i think i'll try the following:
take out every ecu's pin and just keep the vital ones that will keep the engine running. I know it will probably throw a gazilion codes, but it'll be better than a steady "ON" no blink LED! (bad ecu code).
This could actually get me somewhere i think (not sure).
These are the sensors i'm thinking about disabling by taking the pins out of the ecu plug.
A8-VTEC Spool Solenoid Valve
B3-A/C Clutch Relay
B5-VTEC Pressure Switch
B8-AC Switch (ACS)
C5-Intake Air Temp Sensor
C9- Oil psi switch
I hope it works, or gets me somewhere!
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