Wiring Shortage everytime i get on it in 1st.

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blue92ehsi

Junior Member
Ok so this has been getting mighty annoying.

Let me try to explain.

ill cruize in 1st. and then i get on it.

and boom BZZZ ecu sparks and check engine light blows out.

or when i shift (not regular driving just when drivign hard), motor sputters for a second and breaks up, and then starts to pull again.

so i think i narrowed it down to 3 possible reasons.

1. the motor is missing some mounts. so maybe it moves too much and hits the firewall (explains shifting and 1st gear cause of the instant power without the mount support might make the motor hit the firewall, and short something.

2. the only ground the motor has is the thermostat ground. so its missing a few.

3. the car might b running peak and hold injectors on a saturated harness.

if 3 was the case, wouldnt the injectors go 1st?

i think it has somethign to do with somethign shorting out whenever the car shakes alot or flexes alot, due to it doing it when i shift, or when i spray. or when i hit it in 1st gear.

anybody got any suggestions?
 
well if you think its the mounts open your hood and hit the throttle on the IM.

missing grounds is not a good idea...good way to short shit out.

got me i am not too familiar with injectors, so i dont know what that would do.
 
That might be the best question we have ever had asked on this site. :eyepop:
 
sounds like you bought a car of somebody that told you a bunch of stuff and you got it all mixed up like tim allen in a home improvement episode! god damn, if you walked into my business with that id tell ya straight up you're on your own.

what you just said was pure silliness!
 
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what you just said was pure silliness!


If you are really having these problems, you NEED to install the proper mounts, install new grounds, (I usually use more grounds and a heavier gauge than the factory reccomends) And check your injectors out.

I'm going to have to call bullshit on the ecu sparking and the check engine light blowing. Thats just silly, you can't "blow" a check engine light.

And the ECU wouldn't continue sparking, it would die pretty quick if it was directly shorting.

I don't know why I am giving this thread the time of day. I hope its a joke, if not, I hope you follow my advise and fix the damned thing before you kill yourself. An improperly mounted engine is an accident waiting to happen.
 
joke? i can show u a picture of the ecu, its black in 2 different places, and the car still runs. and i didnt think the check light could blow either. but it did.

why do u think im asking, cause that shit is weird. i cant think of anything to pinpoint exaclty whats goin on. as far as not bein able to blow or fry a bulb, how is it so impossible, if u get a short on the power line, sure i would think that it would takeout more bulbs then just the check bulb. but i cant tell u more then i see drving the thing every day.

u live near tampa? ill show u.

tday im gonna check the injectors, and add some grounds.
 
are you even runing fuses? thats the point of them, they blow so you dont fuck shit up. id make sure they are all the proper amperage and fix your electrical problems. sounds like one hell of a hack job. good luck fixing it.
 
and if #3 was the case, no the injectors would not go first. in the circuit the injectors are really only seen as resistors. if the resistence is too low, the ecu gets too much voltage (i believe). its not easy to fry a resistor, but its possible with enough current/voltage, but most of the time you will fry whatever else in in the circuit first, namely the ecu.
 
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and if #3 was the case, no the injectors would not go first. in the circuit the injectors are really only seen as resistors. if the resistence is too low, the ecu gets too much voltage (i believe). its not easy to fry a resistor, but its possible with enough current/voltage, but most of the time you will fry whatever else in in the circuit first, namely the ecu.

well thank you thats what i thought.

see the car used to be on boost. it now is not. thats why i think that the injectors in there cant be the stock d16 injectors. the car used to be puttn out around 400hp. this is why i think they might b upgraded to a bigger peak and hold type injector. and if thats the case, that might explain why it fries the ecu.
 
whats the setup now? how is it different then it used to be? if he was running peak and hold injectors he still would need a resistor box or resistors soldered in. they should still be there if the same injectors are there. i cnt see why someone would take just the resistors...
 
gsrcrx thats my point exacly. the guy who built the car might have overlooked the fact that peak and hold injectors needed a resistor box. IF thats the case hes running peak and hold injectors in a car thats saturated. which in turn could cause the frying.

right nowits just a d16z6 all motor. no more turbo.
 
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