zc into dx
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Since the dx is not MPFI, the swap will be a little trickier. You can keep your stock transmission, and then you dont have to mess around with axles/ect. The dx tranny really isn't as bad as everyone says it is either, it will do just fine. You will need an ecu, if the motor doesn't come with one. You can use an 88-91 si, or 86-89 integra. Other than that it pretty much all bolts right in.
Regarding the MPFI conversion, I've never done that, so I'm not too familiar with the procedure, but I'm sure someone on here can help you.
I can tell you that you will probably need the injector box, and the matching wiring harness with the connectors all the way out to the injectors (including the injector connections) from an Si engine. You'll have some wiring to do....
Oh, and welcome to hondaswap.
Regarding the MPFI conversion, I've never done that, so I'm not too familiar with the procedure, but I'm sure someone on here can help you.
I can tell you that you will probably need the injector box, and the matching wiring harness with the connectors all the way out to the injectors (including the injector connections) from an Si engine. You'll have some wiring to do....
Oh, and welcome to hondaswap.
djextremity
Senior Member
There are as many sites on the net as there are letters in your post on how to do a dx-zc. just look for it. hybridgarage has a good wiring writeup, nosajuf (an aol page) has a good overall...it's easy.
basically...
1. you need the engine, an ecu, an injector resistor pack and 4 mpfi injector plugs, some tools (preferably air, simplifies a lot), a jack, an engine hoist, some jack stands, coolant, oil, plugs and wires (if you don't have any of comparable quality--the dx wires won't work), a SOLDERING IRON, SOLDER, AND HEATSHRINK (NO BUTT CONNECTORS!), a few beers, a few friends, and a few hours. If you have the cash (AND ITS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU DO THIS), buy a new water pump and head gasket (water pump from an EF Si/Ex, head gasket from a 86-89 Integra). You'll be glad you replaced these when they don't go out in 30,000 miles and its a bitch to change them in the car.
2. remove wheels and wheel wells
3. drain the coolant and oil from the dx. this will make your job about 10% easier
4. take all the plugs and shit off the engine, label them
5. disconnect exhaust, chassis vaccum hoses, fuel lines, remove rad hoses, ac compressor, starter, belts, alternator, distro
6. support engine, unbolt tranny, unbolt engine mounts, remove engine from car (slowly, gently, from passenger side to driver side and from bottom to top. some people support the block with a jack, but as long as you remove tension from the hoist it should be alright
7. put in new engine
8. go backwards to reconnect and put everything back on. you have to be creative with the vacuum hoses, so you might need some extra and some tees to be safe. be sure to cut with a sharp razor, no scissors
9. flip TPS outer wires, as mpfi tps wires are backward
10. solder dx rectangular dist plug onto the round plug of the zc. this is easy, just make sure you hold the distros up to eachother so you put the right wires in the right place. there will be two extra wires, those will run to ecu
11. tricky part: cut off injector plugs and wire in resistor pack according to kenji's dx to zc wiring guide.
12. switch some pins at ecu
13. add coolant and oil and plugs and wires
14. ensure proper timing at TDC (this is why you need the wheel wells off, so you can turn the crank by hand)
15. have someone else check your work with a checklist making sure everything is done correctly
16. wheels back on, car on ground, check oil, start the fucker, have fun with 37 more hp and 16 more lb/ft of torque
16b. come on hondaswap and ask why it wont start
good luck, and if you dont feel up to it or able to do it, DONT DO IT, just pay someone, you dont want to go 3 weeks w/o your car...
basically...
1. you need the engine, an ecu, an injector resistor pack and 4 mpfi injector plugs, some tools (preferably air, simplifies a lot), a jack, an engine hoist, some jack stands, coolant, oil, plugs and wires (if you don't have any of comparable quality--the dx wires won't work), a SOLDERING IRON, SOLDER, AND HEATSHRINK (NO BUTT CONNECTORS!), a few beers, a few friends, and a few hours. If you have the cash (AND ITS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT YOU DO THIS), buy a new water pump and head gasket (water pump from an EF Si/Ex, head gasket from a 86-89 Integra). You'll be glad you replaced these when they don't go out in 30,000 miles and its a bitch to change them in the car.
2. remove wheels and wheel wells
3. drain the coolant and oil from the dx. this will make your job about 10% easier
4. take all the plugs and shit off the engine, label them
5. disconnect exhaust, chassis vaccum hoses, fuel lines, remove rad hoses, ac compressor, starter, belts, alternator, distro
6. support engine, unbolt tranny, unbolt engine mounts, remove engine from car (slowly, gently, from passenger side to driver side and from bottom to top. some people support the block with a jack, but as long as you remove tension from the hoist it should be alright
7. put in new engine
8. go backwards to reconnect and put everything back on. you have to be creative with the vacuum hoses, so you might need some extra and some tees to be safe. be sure to cut with a sharp razor, no scissors
9. flip TPS outer wires, as mpfi tps wires are backward
10. solder dx rectangular dist plug onto the round plug of the zc. this is easy, just make sure you hold the distros up to eachother so you put the right wires in the right place. there will be two extra wires, those will run to ecu
11. tricky part: cut off injector plugs and wire in resistor pack according to kenji's dx to zc wiring guide.
12. switch some pins at ecu
13. add coolant and oil and plugs and wires
14. ensure proper timing at TDC (this is why you need the wheel wells off, so you can turn the crank by hand)
15. have someone else check your work with a checklist making sure everything is done correctly
16. wheels back on, car on ground, check oil, start the fucker, have fun with 37 more hp and 16 more lb/ft of torque
16b. come on hondaswap and ask why it wont start
good luck, and if you dont feel up to it or able to do it, DONT DO IT, just pay someone, you dont want to go 3 weeks w/o your car...
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html
very good DPFI to MPFI site
very good DPFI to MPFI site