Recent content by .:i.lIKE:.:eK9:.:lOTs:.

so a friend told me to check the cap and rotor on the distributor. When I did I saw the rotor was corroded prolly from the damp woods I had been living in.. I happened to have a new rotor at home and changed it out. It started and ran after that! Now I am working on getting my idle to settle at...

Hey guys - I drove my car last night and it seemed to run fine. I just finished reswapping it from another EK where the motor always ran well. This morning I went out to start it and the car turns over but doesn't catch and run normally. It has been really cold as well. I thought maybe a...

Hi All I just finished dropping a B20B in to my 98 Integra LS. It appears that the B20 runs a little on the cold side while driving - the gauge usually sits around 1/4 - 1/6 of total temp. My B18B sat around 1/3 overall temp - is this normal for the B20B to read this way?

so I finished the swap. I ended up using the oe flywheel cause I ran out of fundage. but the clutch feels good - it definitely lets out at a different point than the stock one. More closely to the bottom of its travel - kinda reminds me of my old CRX clutch! So thanks to all for the input on...

well I'm on track. I got a new ACT XTSS clutch from some guy for $200 (ACT website says $623.32!). I just need to get the Release and Pilot bearings for it. I'm still on the fence about the flywheel - only because I am hesitant to put something on the car that might be lower quality than stock...

ok I found a guy who has a new ACT HDSS for a GSR for sale. Only thing is it's an open box and is missing the bearing. Does anybody know if I can use the bearing from the LS clutch or is it different or not a good idea to do this? Should I really hold out to get a lightened flywheel as well...

Yeah I agree with your point of it being way easier to just do it now. I don't want to have to pull the tranny in 6 months just cause I didn't take the time now. If I get a new clutch I'm thinking a sprung one. those have a broader range of engagement yeah? Unsprung is more like letting the...

ok that's a start. why do you hate it? personally I don't mind it. but my question is will it be sufficient for the B20's extra torque?

Hi all I am dropping a B20B Longblock with a GSR Tranny in to my existing 98 Integra LS. Can I get away with running the stock LS clutch and flywheel or should I really invest in a stage2 or 3 clutch to cover the extra torque? Money is kinda tight right now. Can I use the LS clutch? I'm not...

sure... what do you mean? I'm sure it would help some too!

there are some interesting points in that C-Pillar article. sounds like most of the flex happens closer to the struts themselves and less at the C-pillar although a hatch would benefit more from C-Pillar reinforcement. I remember once when we had the front left of my hatch jacked off of the...

Interesting note that the password bar ties to where the Honda engineers reinforced for the Type R. I would prolly pick it for that reason - no way anyone can come up with something better than those guys! Also it makes sense that the top bar is less affected than the points closer to the chasis.

yeah I think on looks alone I would prolly go with the password:jdm one. but I want to know which one performs better and why. I can get the raw one powdercoated. thnx!

Hey All - I will be adding a rear strut brace to my Civic EK hatch in the near future. There are 2 distinctly different designs I am considering. 1 is the TDM X Bar. It is a knock off of the more expensive Miracle X Bars. The 2nd is the Password JDM 4 Point Strut Bars. Both look solid but...

I'll keep that in mind. I remember when we disconnected the AC in my Civic - had to leave the garage for a min lol.