i have the clutch lever conversion its a big peice of poop. no matter how much you adjust it you end up with the weirdest release ever. i know im going to have to open the hole for the slave cylinder but also there is a clearance issue with the clutch master and shock tower? i was told i could...
i have a 91 integra rs with the innovative cable to hydro mounts and clutch adapter. i hate it and have herd a few people have got the EG DC pedal and clutch master to fit in Ef and DA chassis? i was wondering if anyone here has done it. i have the pedal and i am getting ready to put her away...
thats why i joined this site so i can talk to experienced people like you and learn more before doing so. i like to DIY and have watched engine builds and would like to learn proper ways of checking clearances and proper installing of bottom ends. i have done head work as head studs installing...
wow i did not know this i thought you could knife edge the crank if that happend. i think my crank is fine the problem with the motor was a burnt valve.
how the b18 and b20 blocks are the same but honda made a diffrent sleeve for the b20 because they were trying to get 84mm. i know with iron...
what the fuck are you talking about did you read any of this im not boosting stock internals i wanna run a 75shot with the arp rod bolts. im building a motor for boost it was gonna be the b20 but its worth more so i was gonna sell it and build a b18 for boost. like i said before i dont wont to...
how woud i go about taken them out without damaging the rods? put the rods in a vice and smack the bolts with a hammer like a wheel stud? what would be the best way you guys would say cause if i dont need to send them out then i might do it.
i called a local machine shop that deals with mostly hondas and he said the rod caps need to be machined or it will be distorted. i just listened to what he said cause he is very respected machinist.
wow thats not a bad price. if i had some extra money id try 1 out. it will be nice to see company's making new parts like this so when alot of these motors start to fade out we can resource new ones for great prices.
i dont know everything i came on hear to ask some questions and you guys gave me my answer just cause i chose to go another way instead of wasting my money you guys hate on me for it? the rod bolts are $65 if that was it then id slap them in but i have to have them machined and thats just not...
i dont see how a stock b20 will be better then a sleeved and bored ls. stock b20 being 84mm with weak sleeves and rod bolts, but a b20 is still worth more then a ls would be any day. now i take my ls bore it out 84mm and put some duc sleeves in it with a good set of rods and pistons then boost...
ok sorry for sayin studs. guy at the local machine shop says the caps have to be machined in order to use the bolts.
Blanco i didnt say they were a waste of money but i will be wasting money when in 3 months im going to buy rods pistons sleeves etc. thats why i said ill just put my head on my...
cause im not tryin to waste a bunch of money. i can sell the B20 for more money then my B18a or b. im building a motor for boost and dont wanna drop a a bunch of money into something im just gonna tear apart again. i think ima put my head on my b18b thats in my car now sell my b20 and start...
talked to a local machine shop. he can get me the studs for $65 and you have to machine the rod caps that is $25 a rod so i think ima sell the b20 and put my pr3 on my ls and build my other ls.
thank you i will look into that but if say they are stock M8 and the arp are M8 there shouldnt be any machining right should just press in like a regular stud?
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