i have a 93 civic hb cx 4 sale. its black turbo and has a jdm b20b motor in it with a gsr trans with b16 final. i ran the car at the begining of july and it went 12.6 @ 114 on 10 psi with 16" gt3's and regular tires which will be going with the car. with slicks and a lighter driver (i weigh 245)...
wheather its a .3 gain or 5 gain of horse power its still cold air. let ma ask every body something. in your eingine bay, is the temperature cool, warm or damn near hot? if its warm or damn near hot , all that warm/hot air is geting into your turbo to your intercooler piping and so on. yes with...
that sounds like a good idea with some revisions. i would make sure the piping are smooth like 97 hatch said and i would make a headlight lens with fine mesh so that no debris can enter the turbo this turbo ram air intake will allow colder and denser air to enter the turbo which should allow...
thats a good size but i still love them 50 trims. ive just done a 50 trim with 63ar stock ls turbo setup for this kid this saturday and it runs excellent and its on only on 8 psi
your setup looks ok but idk about the 8 valve motor:eek: what size turbo is that please post back with info. the oil cooler was not necessary either but since you got it use it. 8 to 10 psi is too much psi for that stock motor. it should be like 5 to 7 psi if you dont have these things get them...
ok you are correct about the 60 trim being the compressor wheel and for knowledge the .63 ar is for the turbine side. thats a nice size turbo but it depends on your goal which you didnt tell. if you are going for a simple setup but very effective ill go with a either a 50 or 57 trim turbo...
ok now i hooked up the feul guage and it reading 80psi when i got to turn it down the motor starts to act up like its starving for fuel then cuts off .now whats the problem?
i have a gsr motor and i changed my oil about a month ago and i not driving it yet. i'll start it up and drive it up the block but no normal driving and today i went to check my oil level and the oil was very thin and watery and it smelled like it was mixing with gas. so to be on the safe side...
hey im deciding on building my gsr motor for turbo i already know what turbo setup im using already but im thinking of using the ls crank since its already im my possesion. wat do u think about it and which rod would i use for it?
and why wouldn't it fit? i know that gsr, itr, and ctr wont fit the ls or b16 rods due to the rod head size being bigger but i dont think he will have a problem puting them on since its the opposite. aftermarket pistons have plenty of room between the piston and the rod so what would be the problem?
HA HA HA HA AHHHH HA HA HAHH WIPE OUT!!!!!
thats the the same shitty manifold by boy got from his trusty imortbuilders shop. i told him that shit wasnt the same as mine. it may look the same but NOT!!!!
thats the difference between 600 dollars and 165 which he got ripped off and payed more...
ok now sinse i pretty much know what to do now, how much do u think i can sell my HKS 40mm wastegate it was used on my friends car for about 4 months and now i want to sell it.
ok now since i go that down pack now i want to think about fuel management
the setup is as follows:
gsr motor with port flow srings and retainers with ctr cams,
JG intake manifold with hondata intake manifold gasket,
stock botom with gsr trans with act 6 puck disc and heavy duty pressure...
:hmm:
do u think i would run into the boost spike problem if i m runing like up to 18 psi with my setup and the 38mm tial wastegate cause like u said the bigger, then least the change of me having boost spike in the future causethe HKS wastegateis 40mm and i may wanna get a 60-1 turbo
oh ok i get u. Now. i have a standard HKS 40mm wastegate and i dont know what size spring is im there and i have a mandule bent manifold with a 35 mm flange on there. do u think its worth it to cut the flange off and use the HKS wastegate and buy a spring instead of buying a 38mm wastegate? im...
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