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Actually a fucked up flywheel will only be felt in first gear, going from zero to something. An axel on the other hand(they will almost never be bent except under extreme tourque conditions) will cause vibration if they are overly worn. However once you are up to speed you should only feel a...

Same problem in my 97 ex, its a combination of mounts and bad axels. The drivers side mount is a terrible design, not good for dampening vibration, swap it out for an aftermarket one. For the rear and the tranny get inserts that will help.

Your a ricer with.. your... master card!

Can't be an obd1 distributor if it won't plug in. If the plugs are yellow and kinda round and look old then it is obd0 if there are two grey plugs then it is obd1 and if there is one grey plug then it is obd2

You don't need the si cluster, i use my stock ex cluster with my b16 swap, it works fine. You just go black a little bit if you redline.

Turbo it!

Leave it, its fine. After the head is back on run it with water instead of coolant and then drain it and replace the coolant.

Yes, they are not as reliable as SRPs or CPs but they are stock replica's, and my friend ran them in his ls/vtec turbo and did not replace them untill after the tranny blew and he decided on a full build.

:werd: unless you want to blow up the d series before you swap it then i suggest running a 150 shot on it and race for pinks:p no seriously, gas her till it blows and put in a b series.

Dude, you sound a little rude on this. Not bashin but these guys are tryin to help and you gotta be as nice as possible. Anyways, to test spark all you have to do is use the dizzy and wires you were using by pulling off a wire and seeing if it gets spark off the dizzy. I have shocked myself a...

In any state it is hard to get it smogged by tailpipe instead of plugin for obd2. However if you ask some garages are happy too and it is legal. Run obd1 and unless your in cali keep looking for a garage that will tailpipe it for you.

Adapt your single cam alternator to work the b series block(a little ghetto fitting but it works) and use an obd2 ls dizzy and your set to go.

I've heard nothing but good things about these pistons and rings. Slightly above stock and good for n/a or low boost applications.

Unless your doing all motor stick with the h22 exh. manifold because it is basically a header, flows very well and you won't see gains without spending way too much money on a race header.

Same as an ls swap, you need a 94-00 integra tranny(any kind unless its jdm in which case any b series hydro tranny is good). The tranny mount is the same but you need the drivers side integra mount, teg rear t bracket, and the two front tourque mounts.

99-00 si is completely different and will not work. Only the integra t bracket will work.

If you don't use the integra mounts than you don't get the drop in height which makes the seat swap worth doing. but saftey first i guesse. Even though i am running da integra seats in my ek with only two bolts in:D.

For a b16 swap you will need a rear 94-00 integra mount. The drivers side mount will bolt up to your civic mount as long as it is still the 2 point b16 block mount(mount bolted to engine through timing cover). Also, the tranny mount will be the same. You will need the two front 94-00 integra...

b21 prelude motors are not the same as integra b series motors and are not at all interchangeable. If you want to convert to a newer engine i have seen h22 swaps that went fairly easy in these body styles. I beleive hasport makes a mount kit.

My girlfriends brother had an 850 turbo wagon, it was pretty quick when he cranked the boost up. But i still walked on him with my bolt on b16 ek.