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the 10hm resistors are what i used. its like $2 for a box of 2 at radio shack. all you have to do, is follow the wires coming from your injectors, and cut ONE yellow wire at a time, and solder a resistor for eack yellow wire, there's 4.

whats the big problem with vtec and turbo? something to do with the extra fuel the ecu sends and some shit....i forget anyone care to explain?

cold snow! damn that sucks....we're having an Idian summer here in Cincinnati. been 70's the past 5 days...

sorry! thing, nipple, whatever, you knew what i was talking about. and what does BSP and NPT stand for? i know my way around an engine, sometimes i have a brain fart...

the place your speaking of is, it blank? like there's a removable bolt/but, but nothing there for it? and i just get a male and female thing, and run the line from that to the turbo? and the sandwich, i was at a domestic perf shop yesterday, and they had one that had 2 outlets, it was meant to...

B16 head, gsr block...poor mans type R. thats the budget way to go

so, if i could get an unorthodoz crank pulley, new for $50. you say it's not worth it? and it'll fuck up my engine in the long run!?

i've seen where people have run the oil to their turbo from the poil pressure sensor, and the filter sandwich thing. but is there anywere else? there is a 10mm bolt on the front of the head, just infront of the cam seal, that if you remove, oil comes out. can this work? clarification... if...

well i know it's for a t3, i'm considering going to the t3...so why is it a piece of crap..

you can use a b18a1, the 92-93 tegs were obd1. and as for the swap, you need all the motor mounts for a 94-00 teg, or 94-97 del sol vtec. and the shift linkage for the 94-97 del sol vtec. you need the wiring harness that comes with the engine. and if you go wit the b16, you only have to run...

how about this manifold? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33742

well i'm really not even sure what i want to do. i may or may not go to a bigger turbo next summer. hell, i may go to h22. who knows, i just know that i have all this shit now, and i only need a couple things to finish up before i install the turbo. so i want to go ahead and finish it up...

why you guys slammin my 14b? i wanted to do somethin low cost yet effective. i'm not looking to build a power house, just somethin with a lil extra boost. and a 14b gives me a lil extra boost! plus, it'll spool quickly, which i want. so, what are the other reasons to ditch it? on another...

i need a custom manifold made for my 14b turbo. i have a b16. anyone know any shops that do good work at reasonable prices? i'm open to all names and numbers, right now the best i've got is $300 shipped for a stainless one.

ok cool...so when is the missing link necessary?

well i've already ordered the missing link, so can i still install it with no problems? i only plan on runnin 7-9psi for now anyway....at least for the next 6 months while i build up my other block..

i forgot to mention that i have the missing link if that matters torwards anything....

damn, thanks for the info... i plan on getting a vafc. and i already have the rail and regulator on my car. are you saying that i should take off the fpr even though i'm going to be using my fuel pump and injectors? and what about the fmu? get it or not? do i really need a fmu if i get the...

so with my str fuel rail, sx adj regulator and fuel pump i'll be ok? and the 450's wont be too much? and...since my regulator is adjustable, doesn't that pretty much take the place of a FMU? and what about spark? just colder plugs? and what kind?

i'm piecing together a cheapy turbo kit. my internals will remain stock(b16a3). i already have a STR fuel rail with SX regulator. and since i am keeping a stock bottom end, i only plan on boosting 7-9psi. so will my stock fuel pump be effecient? ihave a brand new Walbro 255, will that be...