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what compression is the motor now?good header, i'll have to research it for you but their is an awesome all motor header that has recently been released for it. Also what cam you running? You might depending on what your setup is want to run a log style intake manifold or the Y8 manifold ported...

do the b18a you won't be disappointed in daily driving because of the torque. I like b16's but you have to rev the piss out of them to get highend horsepower(without a nice set of cams and compression but at least the R/S ratio is good) or boost it to make up for any low end torque that the b18...

yeah ok what you said, haha, jk. Well if its an HF you can tell right away if it has four fuel injectors and the throttle body will be sideways like your manifold but the dx will be straight up, so if its an HF go for it.

you can use your PM6 ecu you don't need an extra ecu although the 90-91 Integra LS ecu would be better you don't need it. You don't wire into the ecu you just have to run the switched power wire from the Summit RPM switch to the vtec solenoid, this will switch 12v to the solenoid at a designated...

sell it on ebay, trust me someone will buy it, i see them on there all the time. The cylinder head has nothing to do with the drivetrain, it just involves taking off your head and putting on the sohc vtec head, that simple. A ZC is going to cost you more than 300 dollars done right.

questions: 1.Did you change timing belts or take it off the motor? If you did you need to make sure they are both are at top dead center or it'll never start. 2.Are your plug wires in the right order? 3.Check distributor timing with a timing gun? 4.Check your grounds? 5.You say its firing...

not if his friends car is a 89 CRX hf,dx or std model. Which model is it? If he has an HF you can do it with no modification and should add some horses.If this is the case just swap over his injectors to the new manifold but make sure you also use your 89 Si throttle body or it won't be worth...

sell your A6 head for 100-150 bucks and buy a Y8 or Z6 head for 200 bucks or less(complete with intake manifold,throttle body, fuel rail) on ebay or where ever. Now you have 200-250 bucks to spend on the head swap. Heres what you'll need: 1.Z6 timing belt(40bucks) 2.Head bolts and Z6 head gasket...

use the mounts for the civic you are puttin it in not the Y8 mounts, since in a 4th gen car you only have one true "motor" mount the other 3 are tranny mounts so use the 88-91civic mounts. You don't need the Y8 clutch kit you can use the A6 clutch and pressure plate but you have to use the A6...

what is this car for? daily driver? race only? heres a breakdown: EASY TO HARDEST SWAP 1.D16A6 2.ZC 3.D16Z6/Y8 4.B18A 5.B16Acable 6.B17A(rare motor) 7.B18B/20Zhydro 8..B16A/18C/18C5/16Bhydro 9.H22A Least to most horse power in stock form 1.D16A6-109 2.D16Z6/Y8-125/127 3.ZC-130 4.B18A-138...

yes it'll work. Or you can go with the Z6. Without having to swap to obd2 you can use a PR3 OBD0 ECU programmed by locash or hyperducktuning.com to a mugen program that eliminates the knock sensor code and it will run fine. All you have to do is wire up for vtec solenoid and oil pressure. You...

i apologize i didn't read into your statement as i should have, again i jumped to conclusions before i should please accept my apology.

yeah but is that total number of HP at the wheels or the flywheel, you best bet in nitrous applications is too be safe. Good fuel controls, good knock sensing controls and expert tuning is the only proper way to ensure that you don't blow your motor.

every setup is different even if you have the same motor, your only sure fire way is to go to a dyno and its safer than just playing around with adjustments on the butt dyno.

actually if you can get it for 3G than do it, you can turn around and sell that GSR tranny for at least 800-1000bucks and then find a cable trans for about 3-500bucks and make a little profit. You could also sell the axles for at least 300 bucks or more and pick up some 90-91 integra 5speed...

not to be a smart butt or anything but NOS is a company that produces hardware to inject nitrous oxide into automotive/marine/airplane systems.The correct usage is N20 or nitrous oxide, sorry but i'm here to stop the spread of misinformation so people don't bash you with comments like NAWWWSSS...

accordman i hope you are kidding. both motors are acceptable for low amounts of boost without cracking the bottom end open. So far on the factory bottom end and just bolting the vortech supercharger up we have gotten 270HP and 190TQ out of the aftercooled kit on our project blueslayer hybrid...

just like pissedoffsol said its basically a b16a obd1 motor just with lower compression 9 something, but i doubt anyone would pay you 5 grand for the motor, unless you are really good salesman, even for the entire swap because the tranny that originally is with that motor is cable and you can...

actually the d series are not based on the "Bastard" step child of the integra line but based on earlier engine models used in pre87 honda automobiles and if you don't care about a subject and don't want to put in the time to do the research than stop posting misinformation and stick to subjects...

all your mounts, axles and shift linkage should bolt right up if the car is a 92-93