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It is a completely different design and way better all around. If you already have a b16 head then just use that but I didn't notice that you have a b16 already before my last post.

Why don't you leave the GSR head on there if you are getting port work done anyway?? Then you have the quench pads and a ported head... I'd invest in a better header like hytech. Just that alone will make about 10hp over the dc header. Yes get adjustable cam gears. crome is good. Depends on...

I loved the turbo z6 I had and it was VERY fast but my built NA b series is just different but still fast. Either way you go you won't be dissapointed but if you want a drag car without spending a ton of cash the turbo d would be the way to go. Oh and I'm pretty sure someone on...

96-98 is obd2A and 99-00 is obd2B. Harness pinout to the ecu is different.

Homemadeturbo.com

4.4:1 final drive

Not 100% sure yet. Still have to get it tuned. The butt dyno likes it though and it hauls pretty good all the way to 9k. I won't take it any higher than that. Yup the Skunk2 manifold really does make me feel good. I feel like Ron Jeremy in the locker room when I open the hood.. haha.

Also how did you check your power at the pump?? Did you jump pins 4&5 together on the main relay harness then turn the key on and check for 12v? BTW Pins 4&5 should be yellow and green on both wires. It could be a bad ground at the pump too. Pin 2 on the fuel pump connector is the ground and...

Is your ecu stock or chipped?? If it is chipped you might have a loose chip in the zif socket. Did you try another ecu?

LS/Vtec 12:1 compression JE pistons Eagle rods Cometic 0.051" head gasket to lower compression to that stock 81mm bore Skunk2 Pro Intake manifold and 68mm throttle body Hondata IM gasket GSR head Skunk2 Pro valve springs Skunk2 retainers Skunk2 Stage 3 cams AEM tru time cam gears Type R...

Here's a car that was built in good taste ( eg. non ricer. Ok maybe the wheels...) ;-)

Nice door panels... :puke: Might want to rethink the blue paint on them.

Agreed. I was just considering the engine was 50lbs heavier. Didn't take into consideration the transmission or extra weight from the halfshaft/bearing. I just assumed it was about the same. I don't think he was taking his weight into consideration. Not race weight but car weight. All that...

Maybe 50 miles per imperial gallon with an ls tranny and final drive in an 1800lb car being pushed by a 40mph wind and a sail on top of it.

A b series motor doesn't weight 250lbs more than a d. There's only about a 50lb difference which would make it weigh in at 2000lbs. Last thing I have to say is I think it is possible to take 200lbs off a crx hf to make it weight under 1800lbs with a B series swap without cutting the crap out...

Curb weight on a crx is 1967lbs to be exact with a d series sohc motor. 1991 Honda Civic CRX specs, auto safety at Edmunds And that is with an hf which is the lightest.

My guess is it is a wheel bearing. Does it do it only when you turn the one way and do you have to have the wheel all the way to the right? If it is happening when you are cruising and not just when you are trying to park the car, and if it sounds more like a rubbing then a poppinng then I'd...

I don't really know what kind of car the sub 1800lb car is but I thought I'd give him the benefit of the doubt by using the lightest honda ever made as my example.

Vitara turbo setup is cheap but there is no cheap way to make a D put out a decent amount of NA power to warrant building it over swapping besides the novelty of having a D beat a B16.

If it is a crx hf and he has removed 300lbs from it somehow with a b series swap it is possible but how he did that ???? The whole body must be cf and suspension Al.