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:squint: i dunno... sounds made up to me ot anyways, maybe you should start a thread about it

I always wondered about that actually, I have no experience with external vtec controllers but that def makes sense... you can't just pop the solenoid open and expect it to run right it would be like switching from a stock cam to a stage 2 with no other mods or tuning I remember years ago when...

I was planning on keeping all the same final drive ratios, was only going to make 1-5 tighter so it doesn't mess anything up in the awd pm sent on the trans I actually have a lot of old friends in the dc/md/va areas, nothing like some misha's coffee :)

sweet thx for the info unfortunately this project has been shelved again, I got involved in a few other projects including new driveline builds for both my teg and si, and a 54 chevy belair that was love at 1st sight and I couldn't say no. Plus my gf and I are moving to nc in a few months so...

I know this might be a long shot, but what the hell I think I've decided to go with the longer P75 stroke in my new build so I need the matching rods. I already have a brand new in box set of Eagle h beams for gsr so looking to trade for forged ls versions, ideally Eagle h beams but will...

he started it

I think I may have brought this up before somewhere, but couldn't you add a secondary vtec driver circuit like adding vtec function to a non-vtec ecu? I was thinking if you could convert an obd1 for tuning purposes. If not you could always run an external vtec controller or 2 for that matter...

I was the one considering running gsr rods on the ls crank, but the more I think about it the ls probably has more torque not only because of the increase in stroke but the shorter rods too, otherwise the r/s ratio would be halfway between ls-gsr. So I'm guessing the tq gain would only be...

I'm looking to do the same but already have eagle gsr rods... can I still use them with an ls crank in the gsr block? which pistons, any b-series? sorry to sorta half threadjack

bump

long story short, it turns out the oem DC5 lsd won't work with the mods I need to do to make it work in the application, but apparently the obx will due to the different case design. anyone with a K-series obx looking to upgrade to oem type-r now's your chance. Comes with 2 good bearings...

yeah it seems like it, I've got 2 of them all torn down now and so far everything is pretty much the same I always heard that the two were different but not the ones I have anyways, only some minor casting differences in the outer case halves, etc I'll post back when I get everything swapped...

I currently have 3 gsr trans at my shop, 2 are y80s and 1 is an s80. All 3 have different problems but I'm trying to see if I can make at least 1 good trans out of everything. So my q is, is everything interchangeable between the 2 or will some things not swap over or...?

ttt

me? haven't checked yet... should I? Will a static comp test work? as I mentioned, the motor is not swapped into the car yet. just received it yesterday

...hoping the clutch was for b-series but I clicked the link to thmotorsports.com that you posted anyways for whatever reason I like how the fitment guide for this clutch lists this for 99-00 Civic Si as well... lol I *might* be interested in the kicker speakers, let me think about it for a sec

^^ true about the last #. No model designation suffixes. No vin tho? I didnt know that EDIT: I just re-read 78civic's op and I think he means the usdm B20B4 is the usdm one that his friend replaced that he now has. So to somewhat answer the question, the only usdm versions came in crvs...

thanx for all the replies guys. I understand all the rules of thumb with these motors, especially since I've helped install a few over the years. I'm just worried that maybe I have come across one of the oddball ones. Even in the info in AHHVTEC's post it says that regular P75 manifolds have...

like I said in the op, I thought 99+ spec JDM motors had them but I might have misunderstood

yes, obviously. I'm more concerned with the crank sensor than the dates. Just trying to verify that it is indeed the B20Z spec before it ends up in the car later this week. I'd hate to find out afterwards cause then I'll be super pissed.