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:angry: my wheels are 38 offset. fucking stupid rota. maybe i'll look into a set of wheel spacers.

ya really. :buyanm: i can't believe you're building a $40k honda. honda's are great, but a lot of us mess with them just because they're so damn cheap (relatively speaking). but if you're sticking with the hatch, $40k is gonna build you a pretty decent car. i take it you don't plan on...

ya i lowered my perches an inch and they rub when i turn the wheel to lock. nothing a baseball bat and a hammer shouldn't be able to fix. B)

did you check this yet?

gearing. take your tranny off, put a quaife lsd, srr 4.7 or 4.9 final, zc 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear sets in there. it will rip with what little power you have. then get some a1 pistons, a fat cam, im, a real exhaust, and some dyno tuning. read all of the articles in the first couple forums on...

:yes: oem plugs and wires - nothing better. there was an article on www.vtec.net about plug wires. they did a dyno comparision of generic plug wires, ngk blues, and 8yr old oem wires. guess which ones gave the most power all the way up? yup. 8yr old oem sumimoto wires beat the brand new...

eg hatch or crx. or maybe a DA teg why don't you do your homework and research the pros and cons of different honda cars and decide for yourself, instead of just waiting to be spoon fed information so mommy can buy you whatever car we tell you. :roll:

www.slhondaparts.com you can browse the parts by exploded pictures. best way to get part numbers. their prices aren't bad either.

keep the d16, put the money where it counts: suspension, brakes, suspension, tires, suspension. ;) and driving instruction and seat time and seat time. i guarantee you'll do better that way than with a b18, h22, k24 whatever. but if you insist on a swap, a nice NA B18 will do you just fine...

i got 50 bucks on valve lash. my car ran great when cold, then it warmed up and it ran like shit. a lot of the valve clearances were out of spec. that fixed it.

bah short gears are ALWAYS better for acceleration. if you want top speed, get an ls tranny. if you want to be quick, gsr, b16, or itr. if you're fighting for traction, longer gears can help, but the apexi avc-r boost controller has gear dependent boost control so you can turn it down in 1st...

weren't you the guy building "a street car aimed at all out performance"? :P rotas by the way.

yea i hear ya. i've done the same thing. "i just need a beater / daily driver so i can keep my good car nice" soon that beater was faster than my nice car .. i couldn't help it.... it was too slow. :lol: this hobby is worth the money to me. it's about the only thing i take seriously and...

i haven't checked into this myself yet, so don't get mad if it's wrong, but apparently sears - yes sears the dept store - in their stupid little auto garage piece, sells azenis for somewhere around $275 after tax for 4x 205/50-15. i hope that's true, as i'm about due for a new set myself. i've...

baller. ;) well ... i bet i could build a better autox car for a good bit less $$, but i assume you've done your homework, and decided on these parts with good reason. don't be fooled into thinking that you can just spend a lot of $$$ and automatically have a good handling car, as 'you get...

you mean 205/50-15. but yeah, azenis are the shit. i highly recommend them. unless you: plan on using them in the snow, love drag racing, care about noise, don't mind replacing them, as they do wear a little quickly - not too bad though. but damn are they are incredibly sticky. i will never...

damn i can't believe none of us noticed this. :o i hope you didn't buy that neuspeed rear lower tie bar yet. the comptech anti-sway bar has a subframe brace that works as a kick ass tie bar, so you don't need that neuspeed one. i just saved you $100. i'll take my 10% finders fee now please. :P

mine did. some do some don't.... i think there's different ones, older and newer. my friends kit didn't have them, mine and another friends did. ?? i didn't install them anyway. going to get some mugen bushings for the TA. the es TA bushings are too hard give you terrible bump steer. there...

you've got some really good stuff there B) i would probably just go with an oem bar from a 99-00 si, but i'm an oem kinda guy. it's 2mm thicker than one from an ex. i forget the thickness #s off hand. it will do you justice. you'll need the brackets, bolts, endlinks, and get some es poly...

yeah they will definately settle. yesterday i lowered my perches a little bit... originally had a 2 finger gap all around. dropped them so i could just fit one finger in. drove to the gas station and back (5 min) and i couldn't fit my finger in. later that day, i went autox and all 4 wheels...