That's what it seems happened. Maybe rapid heating/cooling caused a break somewhere(hot days and cool nights)? My older Civic still works fine and my brother's car still has the stock wire too; though his connector fell apart(it was like that when he bought it).
There's infinite resistance; as...
He replaced the pads a month ago. Bleeding may help, but if it's dropping fast I highly doubt it's air in the system(which usually spongy/doesn't "drop").
It could still be the MC; possibly the piston seal has gone out so it's internally leaking(it wouldn't lose fluid but would have a hard time building pressure); something like that happened with my Accord where I'd have to pump it to build pressure even though it didn't lose fluid. Replaced the...
So about a week ago we had a tornado and around the same time, the radio in my car started getting crappy reception. I thought it was just the storm but the next day it barely worked(radio part); I was thinking it was because my antenna was broken (just the base was there; replaced/broken by...
The controls aren't cable minus the diverter valves/flaps, but the actual valve on the heater line is still cable actuated. I just double checked on my 92 Accord and it's cable.
Make sure the heater valve under the hood isn't broken or unhooked. On my CRX something like this happened(the cable that hooks up to the valve had come off so the valve was closed all the time).
The ECU is on the passenger side behind the trim; under the dash. There's a sticker on the ECU that'll tell you what it is.
No, but there is a non-VTEC one called a DOHC ZC.
That's bad thinking; don't take that advice.
Cold fuel does not readily atomize as well as warm fuel. The only time you see fuel coolers in race cars are on return lines to the fuel tank or surge tank.
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