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For 51k original miles? Oh yes. Though, have the VIN ran to make sure it's indeed 51k miles(Some states have the mileage at the time registered on the title). The tick is probably the rockers needing adjustment(not a big issue at all).

If fuel is your main concern, probably a clean Honda CRX DX/HF or 92-95 Civic CX/VX/DX hatchback and maybe a little extra(the price of those cars have jumped quite a bit; but of course stock, unmodded cars are usually worth more to most people). I can't really judge the Civic Si he's...

No

No, the steering racks are different(they mount differently).

"Man From Nowhere" if you don't mind subtitles. It's sort of like Taken meets Leon: The Professional.

The grounds you need to check are on the thermostat housing and the main ground(transmission to frame). Shouldn't have power to ECU until engine is on anyways. When you say new distributor is it just the cap or the whole unit?

D-series axle with the B-series CV joint on the inside. What I did with mine intially was just swap over a D-series differential(40mm Si/EX), along with FD, and just ran stock D-series axles.

If you were to use Crome(which is available for free, though not sure how much support is still there), there's more scripts for the P05/P06/P28 ECU. Otherwise, it doesn't matter: they're pretty similar to each other and with Hondata, etc. they have the same features and such.

"OEM" Motec would be overkill; and Hondata is basically OEM with extra I/Os and features. IMO, what they've done with the stock Honda ECUs trumps any other stock ECUs I've messed with(a LOT of added features for stock hardware).

Haha, yeah that's them!

There's a company that makes a kit(I forgot their name, but they build hydro conversions for cable cars too) to use a ZC intermediate shaft on non-threaded blocks(D16Y and D15 blocks); I actually have one but probably will not use it. LMK if you're interested.

P2J Will most likely need some wiring done.

Yes, it fixed it. Though, when I tore it down the 5th gear synchro/gear looked burned along with the fork being loose on it...but this was due to me holding it in 5th gear for about 45mins.

I don't really hike; but some friends and I are planning on going hiking in the fall(mainly because it's more scenic) around Hanging Rock and some other trails in the mountains. This isn't my picture but just how Hanging Rock looks in autumn:

Saaburu?

long-stroke engines benefit greatly from harmonic dampers; especially engines with the oil pumps driven directly by the crankshaft. It should not affect the balance; and you should be able to just throw it on(assuming the rotating assembly has already been balanced also). You will not see any...

The fuel filter is in the engine bay on the firewall. IIRC, you need a 17 or 15mm socket wrench, and a 12mm tube wrench. It's clamped in place by a 10mm bolt. It's not hard at all but make sure you have a rag ready as fuel will spill out(also take the gas cap off to relieve some pressure). I...

I hope you're not looking at those fake "intake-intercoolers"...an intercooler sits between the compressor and engine. Air going into the compressor is already at an ambient temperature...an intercooler would not make it any colder(the coldest it could possibly get would be air temp; and that's...

There's no room to put a intercooler. For a supercharger in general, yes, but on a bolt-in setup like the Comptech kit, no(would require fabrication/modification to make room for it). An intercooler doesn't affect whether you're at risk of hydrolock or not(it's sealed); where the intake is does.

Lol!