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definitely rebuild the GSR

I'm not a huge fan of VTEC. Sure, a B16 head will flow better stock for stock against the LS head. However, that's what porting, cams and valvetrain are for. I'm doing straight turbo LS (nonvtec) with my build.

already done a K20 swap... and now you want an all motor K24. you sir must make very very good money and I envy your project.

just order a block guard and make good friends with a machine shop. beware however that block guards can be prone to causing cooling issues. so you might make sure you have a good radiator or at least an efficient cooling setup.

Injectors: depends on how much horsepower you wish to make. go to Injectors and Fuel Supply and scroll down to see the chart provided that compares number of cylinders x horsepower capability x injector lb/hr (cc) ARP rod bolts are included with most aftermarket rods, ARP main bolts you will...

Honestly, one of those piping setups is probably what I'll start off with. Honda engine bay i/c piping setups are rather simplistic. And they are much cheaper than having a shop fab it for you, as well as cheaper than buying an intercooler / hard pipe package from most companies. You could have...

First, always stay away from the ebay turbo's. They are garbage. You can buy brand new off the shelf turbos from cheapturbo.com or atpturbo.com or even full-race sells good turbos. I'd go with something like a T3/T04e. Most sites list the amount of horsepower the turbo supports. I'd start...

you've still got my offer. hell, i'll come pick it up next weekend.

stay away from those cheap turbos I would order from atpturbo.com or from cheapturbo.com both are fair priced reputable sellers.

it's not necessarily a specific amount of boost. it's a total amount of horsepower the turbo can support at maximum efficiency. i wouldn't go T4, especially if spool times were an issue. With a .50 trim T3/T04e, I shouldn't have any trouble spooling it, especially with full valvetrain and cams...

guys it's okay. i know terminology, and i know the contexts used in this thread. lol this is going to get expensive real quick

I was referring to a thicker Cometic head gasket

mmmm yeaaa you're right. that little difference won't do that much. I was caught up in the difference between 8.8 and say... 10:1 pistons with an MLS gasket to drop the C/R down a bit.

I've got a machine shop here in town that has done work for me for years and they give the sweet hookups. They took a block I had for my former car, and hot tanked it, decked it, and bored it .040 over for $300. Really good guys. As for the JRC intercooler... it's helpful that I've got friends...

i know what he meant. cooks turbo headers for mustangs are called just that. its basically a tubular turbo manifold rather than conventional log style. and yes i do intend on using a "turbo header"

baaazing. more torque, quicker throttle response, etc etc. now you'll want to make sure you tune the fuck out of it. go conservative on your timing. and remember. detonation is BAD.

I edited your figures above for slightly more reality to fit my build.

Indeed I shall. I'm wondering if I should spend the money on a nice equal length / ramhorn manifold or whether I should just go log. Eh fuck it. I like purdy manifolds that flow better. I'll do equal length.

absolutely. its not going to hurt the crank anymore than lower compression and more boost. think about it this way. with higher compression, you're making more hp gain / lb of boost since we all know that boost is not relative.

I was thinking about that this morning. Considering costs, I will probably just do a T3/T04E 60/63 .50 trim. I can get them brand new for about $600. The LS head will also be ported and polished as well as turbo spec crower cams, full valvetrain.