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engine mounts shoulnt make a diff because they have rubber bushings but you do need to check you ground every where i had ground problems and the wire was connected to the frame i just had to clean the connections and it worked... other than that id check the connections.. some times in my case...

H1 is a foglight bulb a lot of projectors for civics and you pretty much need an HID kit so u can se any thing H2 is the high beams on most of these lights which actually work well as regular headlights however there are 2 lights that I'm aware of that use 9006 and 9007 high and low beam bulbs...

H1 is a foglight bulb a lot of projectors for civics and you pretty much need an HID kit so u can se any thing H2 is the high beams on most of these lights which actually work well as regular headlights however there are 2 lights that I'm aware of that use 9006 and 9007 high and low beam bulbs...

OH one of the reasons we went to obd2 is the Dioagnostic codes on it tell you more spacifically than an obd1 code does so it tells you if you have a fault, or you have low signal, sensor malfunction, high imput sorta lets you know whats going on exsactly in the sensor that helped alot to...

im pretty sure that the obd2 is a 4 wire alternator when the obd1 is a 3 or 2 wire im not esactly sure but u may have to do some switching if you dont go back to an obd2 if it still does it and it doesent charge grounds some times can work loose. theres also main fuses in the underhood fusebox...

yaaa ull pry have to take it apart its not that hard to do tho my and my dad took mine apart when we had to get a special tool for the snap rings but other than that it was pretty easy to do.. its just important that you keep track of how every thing goes in u probably will need to take some of...

I got mine dirt cheap . mine are 6000k and got mine for like 80 bucks and they still work.. i had to do some modifiying to make the cut of sheilds have a nice cutoff line so i dint blind people and i removed the cheepo high beam foglight bulb in there they put that i never hooked up i just...

Another fact about an h22 swap is there is alot of cutting involved and im not ot keen on that idea because the more cutting you do on the crossmember the weaker it gets unless u box i in.. its just alot easyer for regular applications to put a b16 in a civic. If u intend to make it a track car...

ya a little more hP but the weight makes it less efficiant. the fact that it the erly ones had iron blocks weighs the car down and it almost makes it slower. Its redline is also 7500 as opposed to 8500 or 9000 in some b16s. but for the price u could get an h22 ucould get a k20 from a type s with...

acutally u can get a EP3 k20 for 1500 then 520 for hasport mounts. the k20 comes with every thing but axles.

thats steep id say go k20 and get a hasport kit that will cost bout 2 grand total.. i only payed 1500 fpr my b16 trans combp ecu then another 200 for axles. but the k20 u can get for 1500 and a nother 520 mounts for it.. it comes with every thing

yes the b16 has a compression ratio to 10.2 :1 nearly perfect as for the b18 normally 9.4 :1 so the b16 uses the compression and all the factors more efficianlty than any of the honda motors. im putting down about 210 on my honda with a b16 with very simple mods and exsact tunning.. with b18c5...

there are several possibilitys.. dont throw out the idea yet.. first you could buy a grey market AWD civic from japan for not very much money thats already awd.. the only problem is the factory differentials in the back are kinda flimsy so you would have to resarch on what after market diffs...