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Will a obd-0 dizzy from a b2 head fit on a z6 head?

It could have been map sensor. That would cause you to run very rich, which would in turn cause gas to bypass the rings and into your oil. Happend to me. Also a friend with a BB chevy with bad rings would blacken the oil quick like.

Thank you again sir,

jlicrx, Thank you very much for the info, it is much appreciated! The only other thing I need to know is if the cable tranny will bolt up to the obd1 zc? I have a cable si tranny I would like to use. Thanks again!

Well I picked up a ZC last weekend. Stamped ZC and is stamped 92 above the exhaust header. I own a 91 ef hatch. This apparently is an obd1 motor... A few questions and concerns are. 1. Will the si cable tranny clutch/flywheel that I have work with this motor? 2. How can I convert this to...

Do you hear the main relay click after you turn the key to ignition? My main even tested fine but would fail to switch at the most inopertune times... Don't bother getting one from the yard either, they are only 40-60 bucks at a dealer. Cheap insurance.

Yes yes I know, but its dented to all hell and I don't like that.

On a serious note, I didn't read through all of the bs in this thread, but I would suggest looking at the main relay. They are known issues intermittent issues in EF's.

As it sits now my hood is dented up from me landing on it. (won't go into details) I am also swapping in a zc, ebay is about 450 for a zc or reg carbon fiber hood. Anywhere else anyone knows of to get it cheaper?

ef-honda.com :: View topic - my build thread...will be updated. Your welcome. And for what its worth, I say go for it.

Ahh I see what your saying. We are both saying the same thing with different words, yes the larger turbo will put out more CFM but it will be exhausted out the blow off valve. And yes it will be more efficient. The power increase from the larger turbo running at 10psi is not due to more air...

Thats incorrect. CFM is a result of pressure applied just like amperage is a result of voltage. I agree with the second statement and its due to turbine efficiency. We are on the same page. Thats basically what I was trying to get at in my last post. Doesn't make sense and is also...

Your not getting it, if more air were pushed there would be more psi.

Duh... Yeah I think we are using the wrong terminology here. I think a bigger turbo would only keep the pressure at 10psi when the engine consumes more air volume than a smaller turbo could produce. If you look at it this way, in this situation we have 2 variables the amount of air a turbo can...

This statement doesn't make sense to me. If it were a larger volume of air per measurement of time there would be more pressure applied. Disregarding spool times, and parasitic loss, I believe 10psi is 10psi no matter what means of forced induction.

Thanks for the replies guys... It ended up being the damned fast idle control valve. I bypassed the coolant to that thinking it was just to warm the throttlebody. I plugged the valve and it idles great now.

91 DX Hatch. PM6 ECU, D16Z6 Intake Manifold (at least I think that is what it is, it has ribbs on the top of it instead of the pgmpfi) On to the issue. It runs great performance wise. The only issue is that it idles like shit, it stays above 2.5k at all times and goes to 3k until warm...

Got it in 15/16's MC, along with a set of cermic pads, brembo blanks and SS lines. Have a problem with the right side caliper though. Its hanging a little bit. I went to the parts store and picked up a new caliper. Didn't come with the part that holds the outside pad. I tried like hell to...

Sweet ride man. Reminds me of the 85 that I restored. +2 on the wing though. Or get an 80 MR2 spoiler. They look bitch on the old ludes.

No doubt. PITA to bolt back in to the stock location. Especially when its 100+ degrees and 70% Humidity...