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Now that I can't help you with... Get a helms or something of the sort that will have the wiring diagrams including color codes... :)

As I stated above "Switching those pins is only for OBD2 Accords... Not your OBD1 Accord..." Which means they plug right in...

Switching those pins is only for OBD2 Accords... Not your OBD1 Accord... Code 6 is for the coolant temp sensor... That means your ECU cannot properly see the coolant temperature and will not activate vtec...

Check your codes and find out what code your throwing... I'm pretty sure that'll tell you what's wrong... ;)

The stock rev limit for a P13 is around 7700... The low cam rev limit (When vtec is not engaged) is 6500... Are you throwing a check engine light? Also make sure the car has fully warmed up, the ecu will not engage vtec until the temp has reached a certain level...

Hmmm... The P13 is very tunable, despite popular opinion... and it's similar to the rest of the OBD1 processors, nothing like the k-series... Hondata obviously didn't want to put time and effort into this small market and slightly different code base when you could just run H22s etc off of a...

You could either get a burner and use the freeware tools at www.pgmfi.org OR PM me and I'll help you out...

Ya, everyone makes them out to be dickheads when in reality they're really pretty cool guys... They don't make a dealership do a print out, they look themselves to see what ECU it is... Your appointment is at the referee, they don't make you drive to a dealership too... :blink: This was a...

Just so you know they don't check if it's JDM or not just as long as it says P30 on the box... We passed with a JDM P30...

Hey, no problem... It's a common myth going around that was started by some eBay sellers to make their P13 ECUs more desirable... Incorrect info reaches so far sometimes it's amazing... If you need any other info on ECUs check out the resources at www.pgmfi.org

Oh, thank god somebody else knows this... I was afraid I was the only one... :o

Dual stage vtec? hehe... You must be confused... The P13 controls VTEC and the Intake Air Butterflies on a Prelude, there's not two stages of vtec engagement... The IABs are used to switch between short and long runners in the intake manifold which gives gains in low end torque and allows them...

Nope, they won't allow the Type-R Mani... The first inspection we had one on and they told us to get the intake manifold off of a B16a2 or B16a3 as long as it's not the 88-91 manifold... You'll need to also hook up the evap purge valve... They do allow the OBD0 to OBD1 Conversion harnesses...

Those Airflow controllers are hacks... :P Anything you do can benefit from tuning... Even in stock form they benefit from tuning... Factory Detuned I like to call it... :)

Ya, this kid is funny... When I turbo'd my truck I got rid of the MAF and went MAP... You're a very troubled individual dude... If you want to run boost on your stock ECU go to www.pgmfi.org get the DIY tools and keep your map sensor! :P

The PW0 is just as easy to reprogram as the PR3... Should work fine with Hondata using the h071 base... Or you could always go the DIY route and save some money... www.pgmfi.org :) As far as the cali emissions thing and getting ref'd... They never offered a B16 in the US during those years...

Tuning an almost stock vehicle is definitely worth it... They come factory detuned... ;) I'd definitely suggest saving some money and going with the DIY tools at PGMFI though...

96+ CX/DX/HX/LX injectors are 180cc... You will need to get EX or B series injectors...

There are people who can disable the immobilizer for you... try looking on www.pgmfi.org or asking katman at www.jdmhondaparts.com...

There's info on www.pgmfi.org about this... Do a search over there... "3 wire IACV"