Search results for query: *

Try it in a friends car... :)

Actually it will work, the butterflies will just remain open...

You can remove them and have a program retuned to make up for it... In stock form at WOT the P30 has more advance low cam than the p72 and less advance high cam (in vtec) than the p72, but the fuel will be sufficient enough... It just won't pull quite as hard top end... Idle will feel a little...

If we're talking OBD1 there's a USDM P28 and Euro P28... The Euro P28 lacks PA sensor and injector test circuitry... Neither have a knock sensor board...

a P75 running a GSR isn't normal... so... yes... The fuel and timing are not setup for the GSR... So it's not running very good...

That's funny, since I run 310s daily on my all motor whore... =) I tune ECUs daily... I mentioned "modifying the fuel maps", I obviously meant tuning... Are you saying Hondata can't run 310s? Their system is not modified to allow bigger injectors, you just adjust the fuel maps... The stock...

PO'd sol>It is possible to run larger than stock injectors by modifying the fuel maps, but there is a limit to how big your injectors can be before even the lowest settings will flood your engine at idle with stock fuel pressure... blink>Hopefully the program you got is a legit turbo program...

It's basically a valve controlled by the ecu that opens to regulate idle speed... Try taking it off and cleaning it... They seem to get dirty and cause problems...

pr3 is at 8100 if i recall correctly, you can also run a pw0... the pm6 is not a vtec ecu, that's why you don't feel vtec... and the ignition timing and fuel is totally off for a b16... That's why it feels laggy... Get one of those other ecus...

Ya, be specific on which ecu you had plugged in... Also, could you rev over 4000rpms?

Sounds about right for a stock pr3...

Passing smog in cali is easily done too, just not a referee inspection... You'll need the correct ECU for that... =) At any rate, one of us will be able to get you setup correctly... No matter what state you're in... James

Nope not that I can think of... Maybe blundar can throw in an idea here... I'll ask him to check out the thread tomorrow... James

no problem... =)

pgmfi.org has the info you seek... forums>development>obd2

Damn obd2.. =P If you were on obd0 or obd1 I'd reprogram you to throw an engine light when you got above a certain temp and/or use an output for an LED or whatever you wanted... I'll keep thinking about what to do for you... Hopefully I'll get another idea but I have a headache right now... James

I was under the impression the fan was ran by the ECU... at pin A12 on OBD1... A27 on OBD2a... A20 on OBD2b... =)

Well... A little info might be appropriate... Your sensor does not run the fan, the ECU does... If you tell me what setup (OBD0, OBD1, OBD2) you're running and what ECU you have I may be able to throw a few ideas at you... P.S. - are you really that paranoid that your engine is going to...

You guys do have very valid arguments... And yes, each motor is different... I do agree that proper dyno tuning should be done IF possible... and it can be done without buying expensive systems if you know what you're doing or want to learn (check out pgmfi.org for info on diy tuning) but in all...

Ya, I can create a custom chip for your specs that will run HARD... Like blundar said, there are other solutions besides Hondata that are much more inexpensive... There's a ton of info on doing all this yourself at pgmfi... James