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I do like chips, I custom make them for people on a daily basis... I don't like fake chips or generic chips that are all the same with different rev limits/vtec points and different names... eBay chips come to mind... I had someone who bought 5 different eBay chips to test which was better and...

Exactly, generic chips suck mostly, there are some that are actually real tunes and they do give benefits... Most won't do what you're looking for, you'd be better off with a custom tune... And honestly, if the dude you're getting the chip from can't even change the rev limiter for you, don't...

They're actually only accurate for ~14.7... And I think I clearly stated that the A/F gauges are not completely accurate... When the fuel pressure is increased before the injectors, when the injector opens more fuel gets through because the velocity is increased... The hose thing was a stupid...

Well, lowering the fuel pressure will inject less fuel... Think of a water hose, when it's on it trickles out... Low pressure... When you put your thumb over the hole it SPRAYS... High pressure... Which do you think releases more fuel? High Pressure =) So for a temporary solution, lowering the...

Well the H22 P13 VTEC ECU have both low and high cam maps for when you're in vtec and not in vtec... As long as the ECU sees the oil pressure sensor, it will put you in the vtec maps when vtec is supposed to be enabled whether it is or isn't... So if your friend is using a switch at say...

To use that ECU you'd have to have an OBD0->OBD2a Conversion harness or put an OBD2 harness in... The conversion harnesses are not cheap and the wiring for the obd2 harness would not be either... You'd be better off getting an ECU for obd0... It'd be cheaper more than likely... PR3 or PW0 is...

I charge $175 for a chipped P28... Message or email me for more information and I'll tell you what's included...

It could be the temp sensor, or the o2 sensor(s), the TPS... man it could be a grip of sensors... Or, it could simply be your fuel pressure or FPR... When you first start up idle is higher so it would eat the fuel more efficiently and not show the hesitation you speak of so clearly... I'd say...

Or if you don't feel like buying an ecu then shelling out more cash for the hondata system and then even more cash for tuning you could just get an ECU chipped with a program already tuned for B20 Vtec and save some money... ;)

hahaha... Damn straight...

dude, converting is so easy... Pills has the right idea...

If you still have your stock intake manifold and you really care about your intake butterflies running properly then you'd want to get a P72, otherwise get a P28 or other VTEC ECU. They can be found all over fairly inexpensively... The IABs not functioning isn't really that big of a problem and...

Well, me and allmotormonster both do custom tuning... So if you can't find a place locally hit one of us up and we'll help you out... James

90 LS ECU is a PR4, there are chips out there for this ECU... If you want to convert to OBD1, the easiest way is if you use a conversion harness... Let me know if you want more information... James

Actually, OBD0 ECUs do blink on their own... If the light stays on it's throwing code 0 which sends you into limp mode (where you can't rev over 3K)... That does mean either something is loose in the ECU or external wiring or your ECU is fubar'd as AllMotorMonster said... It doesn't normally go...

What ECU are you using? Original and new... You can easily convert your auto ECU to manual if the other one is not working...

Yes, the VX came with a Wideband O2 sensor... You must be using the P07 ECU?

Anyone got the hookups on some decent Electronic Boost controllers? I need two of em... One for my truck and one for my CRX... If you only have one, post anyway, I don't need to get them both from the same person... James

Shoot me an email with how many you have and if you do deals for bulk buys... Thanks... James@pmd.cc HardLowrdRanger@HardRacers.com