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I'll get a quote and let you know. :)

No, that shouldn't cause the problem. I'd go after the rotor and plugs first, if that doesn't solve the problem then the wires (rotor and plugs are cheaper and most commonly the problem). -Doc

I would try locating the one that's in there and plugging it back in first ;)

So you are sure you're getting no spark? Run the codes on the ECU and see if anything comes back. If not then you're probably looking at an ignition problem, since there's no spark at any of the cylinders, I'd say either a power problem to the ignitor or coil, or a bad ignitor or coil. -Doc

:D I checked out your website, looks like you've got a nice shop. If you ever have Toyota swaps come in and need the wiring done quick and cheap, let me know. All the details are on my website: Phoenix Tuning - Home -Doc

It's probably the green. You can find out for sure by heating up the sensor (by installing it and starting the engine or by using a propane torch) and measuring for voltage between the green wire and the body of the sensor. It will produce less than one volt. -Doc

Well, for one thing, the 115 psi on cylinder number 2 is a problem, possibly indicating a bad head gasket. However, that shouldn't really stop your engine from starting. I'm assuming that it's cranking fine since you did a compression test. Did you check for spark at all four cylinders? Is the...

It sounds to me like the clutch is on it's last leg. Tranny oil won't make that happen. Also check to see if your clutch has an adjustment (if it's a cable clutch). -Doc

Well, the first thing to look for is whether or not the cooling system is full. If you have a small leak then once enough coolant leaves the system, it will start to boil over (which is what's going on when steam starts coming out of that hose). I'm going to assume that you've check the level of...

It doesn't crank at all? I don't know for sure but that looks to me like a plug that goes to the ignition switch.

2.5" is fine for your setup. The whole backpressure being needed idea is a myth, what is lost with piping that is too big is exhaust velocity. Even so you should be fine with that size. It sounds to me like you may have an ignition problem, have you changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor...

Oh no doubt, it's no longer at my shop. I was just following up on the thread. Thanks very much for trying to help out. :) -Doc

I've got a B18A block and head here that I don't need, $250 or best offer takes it, I can ship it out for my cost or you can pick it up in Savannah, GA. I don't know much about it except that the previous owner was going to use it as a rebuild project and never got to it. Hit me up at...

Yeah that's exactly what I was thinking, but I never located a tach wire on the stock Civic harness, and there is no stock tach. The customer already installed an aftermarket tach, which I hooked up to the blue wire and it works perfectly. The swap is complete. -Doc

Here's the rest of it :) Modifying the power steering pump. I rotated the return line fitting and drilled a new hole to bolt it in. I had to trim the pump a little for it to fit. First startup... After I confirmed that it was running correctly, I detached the harness and loomed it up...

I think I figured it out. This car didn't come with a tach stock, so they don't have the wire in the harness. Am I right?

Okay, let's see if this helps out. Here is the distributor on the H22 engine. You can see that I used the plug from the Civic, and I swapped the power wire (black/yellow) over to the Civic plug (which had 8 pins filled, all of the pins matched except for the power wire on the H22 distributor...

Well... it isn't... heheh

Anyone?

Oh no, that bracket doesn't stay there, it just holds the hydraulic tensioner in a compressed position so that I can slip the new timing belt on. Then it's removed and it tightens the belt up. :)