Good choice, and yes the B-series is easier to install. I only mentioned the K b/c you said money is not a problem and you wanted to see 9's, which is still going to be alot of work. A properly built ls/VTEC Turbo would be damn fun in an EF though.
BTW
^^^I hope you were being sarcastic.
go for the B18A1 over the ZC, especially since you already have one sitting around. More displ. = more potential and like Fernpatch said, you can always put on a VTEC head when you're building the block and go ls/vtec and Turbo.
(or you can always go with a K-series turbo if you wanna...
I meant just the DA integra fuel pump, but I didnt realize there was a different pump for different trims, just wanted to know if it would fit in the CRX.
I have a Walbro in my EG only because its got a K20, I would've thought it would be overkill on a stock B18A1?
Yes, the K-series fuel system is different. You will need new fuel lines, fuel rail, fuel pump and a pressure regulator. Hybrid Racing (and others) sell them, but there was a good write up in Honda Tuning about how to do it much cheaper.
getting alittle off topic, but a K-series will own a B18C5 in the same chassis.
After reading this thread though it sounds like a K-swap is unrealistic, given the posters lack of knowledge/experience.
roachstr0099 there are plenty of good articles in the tech and ref section that can answer...
The B-series transmission uses a half-shaft, so the EG axles won't work. I've heard that the 90-93 DA axles work, but I've also read that they are a bit too long.
I used 86-89 Integra D-series axles in my B18a1 CRX and they work perfectly.
well for $8K you could look into a K-series swap as well. Its definitely more powerful then a B-series, but if you go with the B-series then you'll have more leftover for suspension and other upgrades.
As for where to get your engine, I got my engine locally, but alot of ppl seem to recommend...
Just FYI there are mount kits avaliable for the J-swap into a 96 civic J-Series (EK) - 96-00 Civic (EK) - Civic/CRX - Mounts
But your b-series turbo would prob still be easier.
not much point in doing a k20 swap if you wanna keep it auto.
Maybe an auto accord K24 (plenty of those around), but if you want 200+ ft/lbs of TQ with an automatic trans then maybe look into the J-swap. A K or J swap isn't the best choice for a beginner, but anything is possible if you're...
That thing is not really a cat, pretty much just a test pipe. I should know I bought the same POS from ebay a few years back. I had a magnaflow exhuast and it sounded great until I added that 'cat'.
Get a real cat converter, maybe a magnaflow, and it should sound better.
Well there is a big difference between swapping a B-series vs a K-series, I suggested K-series b/c you never gave a budget, only an NA Hp goal.
whats you biggest concern? Money? 200-250whp? Turbo or NA?
Here are two good articles for info (both in the Ref section)
https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/build-reliable-ls-vtec-85477/
https://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/building-ls-all-motor-monster-31401/
I agree with red91efhatch, swapping the tranny would be a good idea for...
The welding was only in order to move the lower Rad supports to the drivers side, since K-series engines sit opposite (passenger side) from other Honda I4 engines. Moving the Rad to the driverside gave more clearance from the intake manifold ( My intake Mani is an RBC, which different from the...
After swapping both a B-series and a K-series, I can tell you that its much more time and money for the K, duh. That being said, If you take your time and do your homework its really not as hard as I thought it would be. There are plenty of resources for you, and K20a.org has parts lists for...
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