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yes your right with the corresponding ecu and engine OBD specs. and further more you want the ecu that corresponds to the engine from the factory, unless you chip it in which case it must be an ecu that can run your engine's programing. And you can only chip OBD1.

O yeah and as far as law goes, it's illegal in my county to do a backwards OBD conversion. Butt fuckit. lol. I don't care. I registered it in another county. Hence my name. Luckly we have a county close by that doesn't emissions test. All my friends get away with doing that too.......

Each OBD version has a different ecu. They are not directly compatible. If you plan on keeping the motor stock, stay with OBD2a. You need the corresponding OBD2a ecu and you can use your stock harness. No rywire necessary there. If you ever plan on tuning it, you should go OBD1 as it's the...

probably need a com port. com to usb adapter for the laptop. atleast that's how my hondata s200 works. plx devices makes a wideband kit. check over at inlinefour.com. moates is a great site, got the burn1, 2timer, and chips from them for my s200 system. if you check crome's site it should...

thanks for the tip. i actually read about that a while back. nice 'feature' of having multiple colors/same properties.

A) 6 races is far less than a fully, wildly built motor can see. If your getting issues already, the driver sucks, or the engine was on its way out already, or even a combination of both. B) Low miles/pretty much brand new - not at all if you don't know exactly how it was drivin before you...

always. the talk of vtech is ever increasing... lol

lol cool. actually i haven't got to 'run' it yet, just have it ready to go when my car's working again lol How often do you flush it?

Yes exactly what brutal said. Once your motor has peaked, you want to start the climb again. The ONLY reason to out rev like that is if your going to land too low in the next gear as is the case with H22s, but your not going to have that issue with a B-series. Since you don't want to stop...

Dyno proven power or butt dyno proven power? I'm fairly sure it's just a rectal guess...

what are you running? i'm running ATE superblue.

your motor stops making torque at ~7800rpm. it's pointless to rev out higher. unless your gears are really long, you should be hitting the rpm at 5000+ in the next gear and that's well within the good stock powerband. not only is reving it that high harmful, it's pointless. what are you...

geeze haters, he might be talkin about a race track. some rednecks with lack of grammer do that type of thing still. not to say anything about OP..

post the video if you do

actually lol yes i did. i got a text through the grapevine (not mark) about it too. it's blue right? 1000 bucks.. lol well i haven't seen it but cool. we'll c if mark actually gets it though. hope u get it figured out man. best of luck of course

My P30 wants the knock sensor. No cell, not necessarily no problem. Again, got some data logging???

ya you would have coolant coming from the head gasket most likely, not oil. sounds like it's dripping from the valve cover gasket, and by the cam seal is a notorious spot. some rtv sealant will do the trick. what basemap are you running? what tuning solution do you have? any diagnostic...

simple correct answer, though a little misleading. it's IN the underhood fuse box but is an integral part of it and the whole fuse box must be replaced to fix that. if you chip your car with hondata s200 i know for a fact you can disable the eld. maybe with other chip programs as well...

simple green and scotch brite pads? ya razor blade for gaskets, just try not to actually cut/scratch the metal off with the corner of the razor. nice find. though, i know jack about it. will this be a performance increase for ya?

Plastic cards are a great way to take apart cell phones too (any small or sensitive things for that matter). Wonderful information by everyone. I have learned!