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...AND my rods were bored and my crank was polished. I think I am going to end up paying for the OEM stuff. Does anyone know how much thicker (or thinner) each color shift represents in actual size (inches or mm)? For example from Red to Pink?

Thanks, I did look into it. According to their post on H-T, they'll be up to 20% off, but when I tried to call they had already closed. I'll tray again on Monday. It could save me 50 bucks. :thumbsup:

I've looked at other bearing manufacturers, but they all have the "one size fits all" approach. I am trying to do this proper and maintain the factory required oil clearances by getting the right color codes. From what I understand, all other manufacturers are basically the "green size" bearing.

Just got my block, crank, and all back from the machine shop and I went to order new main and rod bearings for it. I want to use OEM bearings to get the clearances right so I called 2 local dealerships and they want $14.50 PER HALF BEARING. (Who the hell replaces half a bearing?) :blink: I...

As well as I understand it, is omething like this: You have to put a jumper across the connector to overide the car's computer. Otherwise, when you move the dizzy around, the computer compensates for the movement and sets the timing back to where it was. You still need a timing light, the...

Here you go Travis. I think this is the right location for your car. (circled in green) Probably has a little yellow rubber boot over it. Good luck. Paul

:frown: This is pretty depressing. Only 2.5 BAR legal swaps in CA. (half point for droppedcrxsi who passed visual but failed emissions) Come on people. There's got to be more out there.

Thank you B18aCRX & StarBelllieAngel. That's interesting to use the B18B cams with the B18a head. I hadn't thought of that. It's got to be less aggresive than an aftermarket, but I'm guessing those were better than the B18a stock cams? It's also good to know that stock JDMs ran higher...

Alright I've heard a lot of OPINIONS from people about what will pass and what won't pass CARB smog refs. We all know you have to have an engine from same year or newer, it has to have been available in the USDM, and you have to maintain all the original emission equipment. So if all you did...

I didn't expect the flywheel to mess up the emissions, but when I decided to tone down the build, I wasn't sure a lighter flywheel was all that necessary. (Maybe I will still put it in.) And I've thought of swapping equipment every couple years to pass smog but not sure I want to mess with...

Alright, you guys have been very helpful but you're really scaring me with the prospects of failing smog. I've decided I have to tone down my build in order to be safe. No flywheel, no camshafts, probably just intake, header, and exhaust. I do have a connection in the piston world so I will...

BRIAN: HA...couldnt agree more. And thanks for the tips. I'll check into that wrist pin thing with the stock rods. The Streetlite flywheel is 12.5 lbs and I chose it because this is my daily driver. This is my first swap and my first engine build, so I'm trying to keep it fairly simple. Why...

I posted on here yesterday about building up my B18A. And I want to thank everybody who responded. But, I've heard some mixed things and want to clear the air. Everyone in CA knows what a PITA it is to mod your car. My current CRX w/ D16, JG throttle body, cams, and DC header and exhaust...

The shop is just doing the basic rebuilding prep work: bore and hone cylinders, flatten block and head, re-grind crank and valve seals. I'll be using the stock crank and rods. So...the concensus seems to be: get some cams to go with this setup to optimize the results. The big question is...

I'm swapping a B18A into by 89 CRX Si, the block, head, and crankshaft are out at the machine shop now and should be finished next week. So it's time to start buying the accessories. I want to squeeze a few more horses out of the engine, but I'm in Southern California and have to pass smog...

I too have a B18 in my garage...and did a bit of research trying to get VIN identification before I bought it. I found there is no VIN on the block. The number below the "B18A1" is some type of serial number and that's all.

I had similar problem with two connectors on the back of my B18A. If yours are the same type, as in they have a black rubber boot over them, then just hold the tip of the boot and give them a good pull. It worked for me. IF THEY DO NOT HAVE BOOTS then I would keep searching.

could be alignment or wheel balancing

hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide are both reduced by the catalytic converter. what is the condition of your cat (if you have one)?

Did you check the fuse to the ecu? I think it's the same one for the hazard lights.