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I'm reading around and yes it is 1:3 scale.

who needs a wife when you have a ferrari... maybe he needs a midget wife

if you want a full catback, sure go kteller i'll stick to 2.5" resonated down to almost stock sound... but with an e-cutout at the downpipe for whenever I race somebody.

i almost got teary eyed in utter awe of everything that he had done himself.

1:3 scale ferrari replica. running motor. working gearbox. everything PERFECT. built entirely by one man. YouTube - Stunning Fully Functional 1:3 Scale Ferrari 312PB

letting off is for quitters lol

saweet. thank ya. i am picking up my block from the machine shop very soon. she's gonna make a great cupholder for the time being until i get all my bottom end parts in.

Motor: fully built LS non-vtec Turbo: T3/T04E 57 trim .63 a/r Planning on running around 8 psi and initial tune, getting used to the car. And then on 110 octane running somewhere in the region of 18 psi. I'm wondering which wastegate (external obviously) would best suit my needs. Would the Tial...

you won't need a new manifold as long as you buy a turbo that has the same T3 bolt pattern, which is very widely used. you may need to modify the piping SLIGHTLY but not much at all. you've got oil in your intercooler piping most likely because your turbo is leaking oil (blown seals). here ya...

well you're going to be sleeving a block no matter what block it is then.

hmmmmm going lean much? lol

uhhhhhhh nope. b series do. hell, even D series do.

honestly for a good break-in with a fresh motor, this is my belief for the best outcome: upon first startup, run for about 5 minutes, then increase RPMS to about 3000 and let it sit there for another three or four minutes. shut it off, drain the oil. fill it back up with oil, and take it out...

please ditch the FMU and get tuned properly. as we all know, it's not safe to run stock timing maps on more than say 6 psi on a stock motor forever.

IIRC, you shouldn't need a custom head gasket (or at least modified) until you are boring more than .040 over

AEM EMS.

they aren't bulletproof either. i like to have a cushion of safety and comfort. then again, i wouldn't even build a b20 project anyways.

you will heat soak the FUCK out of a 14b with an H23. i would honestly do a ported 16g

I agree, stick with 10w30 and you should be just fine. With that compression, you're best off running plugs 2 steps colder than the factory heat range, which would be the NGK TR7's. TR55's are factory heat range.

exactly. your seals are fuuuuuuucked.