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vtec will not engage with a KS code, unless I'm mistaken. If you care about that high cam lobe you should address this. You can spoof the KS electronically with a resistor+cap or use a chip that removes the check for it in a code.

why don't you get a set of big injectors and a Uberchipped ECU or hondata? FMUs are ghetto. Edit: in case this suggestion wasn't clear, the Uberchip can read boost and comensate with more fuel and adjusted timing just like a hondata. What you don't get are hondata's quality tools and support...

that's not a good code. Fried ECU, fried ignitor module in distributor, fucked wiring.

I'm guessing that you are cooking them - mounting the ignitor module inside the distributor means all the heat from the head is transmitted to the ignitor module. Have you tried replacing just the ignitor with a brand new unit from honda? I've also heard that the ignitor modules from honda...

what ECU are you using to run this mess? are you throwing any codes?

in all likelyhood, you will get a P30 ECU with the swap. Use it. If you do not get an ECU with the swap, you have several options: 1. JDM P30 (misc. Japanese B16 cars - expensive if you have to buy seperately) 2. USDM P30 ECU (94-95 Del Sol Vtec... Rare, expensive) 3. USDM P28, chipped...

I second the "check grounds" idea. Additionally, are you replacing just the ignitor with a new module or are you getting a used/rebuilt distributor? How many have you had fail? How often are they failing? How high do you rev your motor? Do you do a lot of endurance racing/track racing where...

if you're going to stay at relatively low boost levels, considering a Mitsubishi TD05H-16G or 18G (or even a 20G) might be a wise idea. A FOAF here with a mitsu 16G has boost before 3000RPM... full 7pounds. Its rather scary. If you're not going to build the motor you might as well get a turbo...

pistons and cams will not affect electronics. What in your distributor are you blowing up? Coil? Ignitor? Sensors? Rotor? Which piece of your distributor keeps getting fried will tell a lot about what is wrong with your car.

DO NOT use a 86-87 ECU. You need a 88-89 teg ECU. They look nearly identical. BEWARE the 86-87 ECU will NOT run your car. You can find them at a junkyard near you lol...

on many STOCK chips, the transition from non=vtec to vtec is very smooth, and can be missed easily. You should try splicing a 12v lightbulb from radioshack in line with the vtec solenoid signal. If you see it light up, you know the ECU is happy with what's going on. If you are still positive...

use your stock harness. Do not cut it up more than you have to. you will need to run 1 wire from the vtec solenoid to the ECU in order to activate vtec. You might need to run 1 wire to the ECU from the vtec pressure switch but I vaguely remember P08 ECUs not looking for this. KEEP YOUR STOCK...

Quote Calesta: No, he can modify an American ECU to use an aftermarket chip, as long as it has the newer style ROM with the fuel maps on one removable chip. OBD2 is a little hard to play with, but later non-OBD and OBD1 ECUs are very easy to modify. WTF? Its common knowledge that OBD2 ECUs...

he should head over to PGMFI... this has been covered, and he can also find US H22 ROMs if he looks hard enough. lol.

http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=pr3_a

if you aren't INCREDIBLY concerned with accuracy (although precision is generally very good) you could make a RPM activated switch with a frequency to voltage converter, op amp, adjustment pot and probably do it for under $10. Requires a lil electronics knowledge. And if you felt like totally...

If you have to ask this, you probably should do some more homework. H + F series + 4G civics = world of pain If you're serious about doing it, I'd probably: -convert the car from OBD0 to OBD1 -do a DPFI to MPFI conversion if you needed to -run the Prelude computer -make a hybrid harness by...

Code 15 is why you have no spark. Code 15s are caused by one of very few things in my experience: 1. Bad wiring (not likely since you didn't mess around with the engine harness DID YOU?) 2. Bad ignitor module in distributor. THIS IS NOT THE COIL!!! The ignitor is a recangular box with 4 wires...

well, your main engine ground (by the thermostat housing) is normally the candidate here. The last ignition system component you haven't tried is the ignitor. In my experience, these go bad a LOT. Before you go swapping out the ignitor (they're not cheap... ~$80 if I remember right) you...

yes - a P28 ECU is a P30 ECU without the knock board. Be careful tho - there are differences between JDM/EDM/USDM ECUs that can cause US programs to not run in foreign computers under certain circumstances.