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if your VTEC isn't working, your check engine light will come on. But if the screen between the vtec solenoid and the cylinder head is clogged, then it won't work and your computer will never know, thereby not setting any codes. Driveability problems without a check engine light to go by are...

Most clutch parts and water pump timing belt, etc. can be ordered from a 92-93 USDM intergra GRR

You are correct. The numbers are just casting numbers for which plant they were made at. For the most part there is no difference unless the second head you got is from an SIR-2

Yeah, you're high or something. Iwould consider it if they were REAL spoon wheels. :blink:

The 88-89 civic wagon is 4WD, not awd and you have to manually engage it with a button on the dash. And it does only transmit 10% of the power to the rear wheels, which by the way, is a SOLID REAR AXLE. (yuck), so doing this conversion would be a complete waste of time unless you are buildind a...

its easy to get rid of that annoying ass light, Just go under your seat and unplug the connector. And yes factory seat belts suck with non-reclining seats. I would get 4pts.

I have personally delt with 2 importers out of california, Nippon motors, and Rising Sun engines. Both have very decent prices and the shipping isn't too bad. Rising sun especially will give you everything with the engine, Just how it came out of the car. The last B16A I got from them even...

I have the JDM equilvalent of the Skunk2 exhaust. An RS*R catback N-1 style. I gotta tell you it sounds and looks awsome, but it is a liitle loud for my tastes.

Of course you can. All factory turbocharged cars have air filters on the turbo intake side don't they? Just make sure you get the filter as far away as you can from the turbo.

I just drilled a hole and added a second o2 sensor bung right next to the other bung. Of course you have to weld it in. I have done this and it works just fine. Then again you could probably put it anywhere and it wouldnt matter, since OBD0 isn't that sensitive.[COLOR=red][CODE]?

fuck a B16A, I say put in a supercharged yugo Ra-1.2 liter. That should get you some respect. :rolleyes:

Fuck, I say add one turbo for each cylinder and two blowers. The more the marryer. Try what ever you like. expirience is gained through hands on work, not from the advice of some moron no-it-all in a forum. good luck

quit listening to all these retards babble about cfm this and that. Just try what you think will work and let the results speak for themselves. Everyone's a technician. lol :gives:

Mother of god!! That rex is unfuckin believable. I guess I wasn't too far off in saying that the parts were similar. Props to that Frenchie for pulling it off. It makes me wanna do that to my 93 Civic hatch. Come to think of it I know where I can get my hands on a WRECKED CR-V....... be...

Think SMARTER, not harder

Dude, i HAVE THOUGHT of doing the same thing at one point in time. Theroretically, The CRV shares the same chaissis as a civic, so I guess fillting all the parts wouldn't be all that difficult with some thoughful engineering. The only thing that sux is that U would have to use the CRV tranny...

I have a Gsr tranny with a final drive frome a first Gen cable B16A tranny. I have found this to be the best setup for drag racing do to the tall gearing. I have the same engine in the same car and so far on street tires a have run a best of 14.33 in the QTR. :woo:

Like I said I have over 37,000 miles on my engine so far, so I'd say that's prety reliable. And no you don't have to remove the teflon coating on the cylinder walls, I've just proved that. As far as you're concerned, I'm the Messiah of Honda Motor Comany and there is nothing you can tell me...

[SIZE=7][COLOR=green]listen ppl, I have an H22a in my 93 civic hatch, I did all the motor work myself, with used parts... Thats right USED PARTS! Forged Arias pistions , cunningham rods and a nuformz, block guard. I custom built my own turbo setup with various junkyard parts, including a T3...