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That almost sounds like a ground issue to me. It could be a power or fuse issue still...are you throwing any codes? anything strange going on with the idle or how the car is running? Does it to it if you have lights/stereo/etc. off?

well in all honesty what we think shouldn't matter too much unless it is telling you what not to do as it is a waste of time and money. built b16 head on GSR block lower compression great for high revving. turbo I personally am not a huge fan of but to each their own. b16 tranny will give you...

3000 out the door everything installed and all taken care of isn't too bad of a price. I have seen worse because little stuff adds up and shit happens. I'd say you should be able to have it all installed and wired 500-700.

most likely map/TPS but could be a number of things.

I personally have never tested a dizzy itself - I always check to see if it is putting spark through wires - get a long screw driver put it in one of the wires and put the screw driver near something metal such as the frame and have somebody try to start it - start w/ number 1 cylinder and move...

pick up like a GSR swap if you can find an ITR tranny even better - basic bolt ons intake/header/exhaust and such get a decent lightweight wheel - hell I am a firm believer in lightweight flywheels around 11 lbs. at least a stage 2 clutch and call it good - you should be able to pull him without...

he said his dipstick shows no oil on it...he changed his oil and 5 minutes later checked it and still didn't see any oil on it.

has all of the wires cut that is not needed to neaten the apperance this alone bothers me - double check the no codes thing...I bet you are throwing one or 2...when in neutral will it rev above 3k? is it only when driving? could be a number of things check your wiring and connections.

b20/ls and then there are weird people like me who would have pnp and 3 angle done on it and slap it on a b16 block w/ cometic head gasket and have some fun playing.

I would just go to a junkyard and remove 2 ecu pins. pretty easy to do with a small screwdriver and a pair of needle nose.

your cx will need vtec wired from the firewall to the ecu anyway...cx doesn't have vtec wired to the ecu

somethin like that personally I reccomend using an ls wiring harness because you don't have to extend the 02 sensor. Because either way you have to wire vtec to the ecu and you could just do rywire's harness and cover that pretty easily. or just get the barrel plugs for the knock sensor and vtec...

obd1 you only need 1 o2 sensor preferrably a 4 wire...either get the o2 sensor on the header or in the cat...if you put it in teh cat make sure you have a bolt or somethin to fill the bung on the header if there is one as most do have one there.

you can have the distributor rewired for obd1 it is a pain in the ass to do but it is possible just gotta get the plugs. I recommend just swapping the injector clips as well they wire up color for color not hard to do at all if you don't wanna swap injectors out. Alternator will also need to be...

bare minimum needed and can be solid is the rear t bracket tranny mount/torque mount and the side motor torque mount...more will stiffen it up better and hold it in place but not required.

where u located?

there are obd1 and obd2 p30 ecus - there a few ecu's you can run for a b16 depending on your obd and needs/wants etc.

yes it has a half shaft/mid shaft on one side bolted to the block - guessing you already have pub pulled out to the side to give yourself room - grab hold of the metal shaft and push/pull back and forth - it will seperate - or take it to a shop if you can't get it

bring this place back - I know some users in my area would like to know who all is

I would use the ecu for that motor - it should start and run (with cel's) without the O2 sensor hooked up - does it try to turn over? attempt to fire? any spark? give us some info