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its definately a nice modification.. but it would blow driving on the hwy. My jdm b18c lsd with a 4.4 FD is already bad enough.. i couldnt imagine it with a 4.785

yes the final drive will work.

hahahah oh man im an idiot. I plugged one of the vtec clips into it. I'm never doing a swap stoned again

well since #13 is missing it's throwing code 6 (ECT).. but I THINK i might of mixed up the clips, i'm going to update if i did

Yeah that's what I'm thinking now that I thought about it. But the problem is I'm still missing #13 and it's throwing a code. I'm pretty sure #11 is the ECT now, my mistake.

So I'm throwing a code 6(water temp sensor) on my b20b (p06 ecu with p75 map). And I notice that there's an extra clip lying around. Which goes to #13[/IMG] But my b20 motor has no sensor there.. the motors are both obd2 so I figured it would be fine, but I guess not. I'm really stumped here...

So i got my swap finished b20 into an ek (p06 chipped with a p75 map). I have a code 6 (coolant temp sensor) Now I swapped sensors with my old one off my d16 (it fit fine) But I still have code 6. I have the rad full of coolant (haven't let it run 2 cycles yet to finished the flush) but I know...

I put on a 'new" TPS on my swap, but now unfortunately the car will not drive. I take it outta 1st hit the gas and nothing happens? The revv's don't climb. I checked if it was the throttle cable but it is opening up the plate, so I assume it is the tps which I haven't calibrated. I've never...

bleed the clutch and do a tranny flush

okay just checked my batt. voltage and the alt. is charging 14V!! so my wiring worked. Nope I didn't have to wire the iacv up because i had a ex harness. Under "swap articles" (the section on this site) there's a thread that explains how to wire it up

the alt. is a tricky one kinda.. ive searched for a straight answer found diddly squat. what I did was wire the blk/yell wires together, the white/blue ones together. Then I connected the final two pins (white/yell. and white) and connected that to the remaining white/red wire in the obdII...

Sup guys.. i picked up a obd2 b20.. it came with an alt. with a cut clip. It was a square four prong with a blk/yell, white/blue, white/red and white/green wire i believe. My obd2 harness had a blk/yell, white/blue and white/red wires. I did the following.. connect the blk/yell wires, the...

well just for research sake.. i'll post up what I found searching. alternator: obd1 obd2 blk/yell.-------------blk/yell wht./bl.-------------wht./bl. wht/gr.-------------wht./yell blue----------------wht/red.

... nvm!

the answer was been found.. thanks anyways!

so i got pretty much nothing to worry about.. all my mounts are new OE.. but im missign the tq mounts. Either way.. ill be getting the tq mounts as soon as I find a set for cheap.

well there is a difference btw the two maps. But as long as you don't drive hard or use it for long i cant see it doing any damage. It definately won't run that great though

is it true that if you don't have these torque mounts (b20 w/ low manifold in an ek) the IM will hit the hood under high revving?

vacuum leaks can make you run rich. Fix the leaks

found the answer