I figured my compression would be worse than that lol. Im not gonna be able to afford to dyno it and see what its pushing so could you tell me about how many lbs of boost I should run?
Alright. So I have a 2000 honda civic and it has a b18b1 with a b20z head on it. I want to turbo it. But with the motor set up does anyone know what kind of compression this is throwing? Also how many lbs of boost should I daily it on???
So, if I unhooked it my issues should quit right? like I know the check engine light will still be on, but wouldnt my electical issues stop if that is what is causing it?
I have already replaced my alternator lol.
Thats what I thought. Now does anyone know a good walkthrough on how to change the VSS? And would the VSS really cause my electrical issues? It only does it when the check engine light is on. And it throws the VSS code, however I do not see how that ill fix the electrical issue. Im still...
So I was reading back through here. I want to make sure I read the code right. When I hooked the wires together it did this.
1 blink for about 2 seconds
7 blinks for about .5 of a second.
17 correct?
So i get up under my car to do this paper clip trick and i dont have that plug. The wires have been cut and the clip is not there. Im going to connect the wires anyway. See if it does anything
Okay, so my issue is totally based on the weather temperature.
Earlier today it was in the 40s. Car ran fine not one issue.
When I cam to work tonight it was about 35 degrees and the check engine light was on and my lights were dim no speedo.
Driving home on lunch about 32 degrees. Check...
And not just cold. Like it has to be at least freezing temp. And just checked my alternator belt. It is kinda loose. Ill tighten it up and see if that helps. Would the vss cause the speedo issue? Or do you think it might just be from a lack of power because the belt is slipping?
Haha still no answer. Also new symptom has steared me toward a bad vss. Today my tach died an the came back on a few times and the the speedo stuck at like 40 and the took its time to drop back to 0 when i stopped. But as soon as the car decided to make the alternator kick in everything was...
So does anyone know what it could be? If its cold the check engine light comes on and the car does all the symptoms as before (minus the trying to die) but when the car warms up everything kicks back in and works fine. Or if i start the car when it is not freezing outside the car acts fine. No...
So for some reason they can not scan my ecu. I went to 3 places today. All of them got an error. They cant even pull the data of the motor. Idk what to do now.
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