as received in an e-mail and replied to, and now posting for further comments and answers.
---------------------------
ian-hicks@student.kirkwood.edu wrote:
>
> Hey! I read some of your posts/FAQ's on the honda swap forum and I
> had a couple of questions. I did try to search for the answers but I
> must not understand how to use the search option correctly. Anyway,
> I am interested in putting a B18 engine into my '91 CRX SI. In your
> FAQ you said that the B18A will go in NP with engine mounts, shorter
> linkage and B18B axles etc.
The crx is an ef chassis (ED 4th gen base) and thus, the b18b axels will not work. the main difference is that you need to use a cable-acuated transmission. the b18b is hydrolic. the axels and intermediate shafts are different.
I have been unable to figure out where
> the different transmissions come from and what the names mean though.
> So I was wondering if you could suggest a transmission for me.
you have three options for 4th gen b-series swaps.
b18a (90-92 integra ls/gs/rs)
b17a (93 integra gsr - VERY rare. you probably won't find this tranny for a reasonable price)
b16a sir1 (JDM civic/crx sir)
the b18a is the cheapest and most available. but the b16 sir1 is the one to go with. its gearing is closer, and thus, your car will accelerate faster.
I
> want a manual and I only plan on getting the car to about 300hp so it
> doesnt need to be an outrageous tranny or anything.
all honda tranny's (except autcraptics) are pretty strong. that said, i would DEFINITLY install a quaiffe limited slip differential into any tranny you decide to go with, unless you are able to score the sir1 tranny with the OEM LSD in it. having 1-wheel drive sucks. give it 300 hp and your all over the place. the 800-1000 bucks is so worth it for the quaiffe.
Also, what the
> heck does the b18a engine come out of and where do I get the b18b
> axles?
see above.
Also, since I am trying to get to 300hp, what do you think
> would be the most cost efficient method?
i would do a b16a Sir1 swap with the lsd tranny. you can pick this up for about 2000 as a complete swap.
add mounts from hasport.com and they have a shift linkage too if your swap doesn't come with one. the axels that come with it will fit. i recommend hmotorsonline.com for motors. Steve is a good guy and his motors are super clean.
after the swap, the only way you're hitting 300whp is with a turbo set up and proper fuel management/tuning.
you're going to have to do an obd0 to obd1 conversion to use anything worthwhile for fuel management.
its easy. all you need to do is get an obd1 ecu (p30 or p28), an obd0->1 ecu conversion harness and an obd1 distributor from an 92-95 sir2 or 94-95 del sol vtec or integra gsr 94-95. and then, do the re-wiring. its very straight forward, and there is plenty of documentation on this around the boards. you can probably take care of all of this when you're wiring in the VTEC stuff.
you're going to need fairly large inejctors. i recommend 550cc saturated injectors from RC engineering. http://rceng.com is their site, and as for a dealer, http://importparts.com has them for a good price. remember to go saturated if you're going obd1. you will have to remove your resistor box as well. this removal is also documented. yuo'realso want to run a walbro 255 fuel pump to support the larger volumes of fuel needed.
then, comes the turbo. a http://www.precisionturbo.net sc34 has your name written all over it.
fuel management options range from uberdata, which is an "open source" and a do it yourself kinda set up for cheap (just buy the hardware needed) to middle of the road hondata which will run you about 550 bucks for the s200 w/ boost all the way to full standalones, like the aem EMS, fast speed pro, and so on, which are just uncalled for for your goal. so, uberdata or hondata is where you want to go with it. Either way, you're going to need dyno time and a tuner or tune yourself. but, with your experice level, i would highly recommend a qualified tuner. even a Ford tuner guy can probably tune you better than you could dicking around with it. tuning is tuning- for the most part
add a GM 3-bar map sensor, because you're going to need more than 10 psi to hit 300.
although not necessary, i would also do rods and pistons. A set of Eagle rods and some 9.5:1 compression pistons like JE, CP, or wiseco's will help in adding some support to the bottom end.
300 hp has been run on stock blocks by many people, but to me, the 500-700 bucks is worth the sense of secuirty.
> Thank you very much for your time.
No problem, but in the future, use the forums. That's what they are there for.
More so, just like you- you got no search results. Well, If this very thread was posted in the forums, it WOULD have come up. For someone else a week or year from now, it will be documented. I'm going to post this as well to let others respond as well. and from this point on, i will only reply in the forum thread.
All in all, you have a LOT of reading to do, and a lot of saving to do.
you're looking at about 2000 for the basic swap + shipping + misc belts, etc that you'll want to replace, so we'll call it 2500.
a complete turbo setup will run you at least 1000 and might hit 3500.
then, add the fuel management, injectors, fuel pump, pistons, rods, misc fittings, gauges, oil lines, tuning and dyno costs, and you're going to close in on 5-7000 before you know it.
It's an expensive sport, but in the end it's worth it.
-Brian (pissedoffsol)
---------------------------
ian-hicks@student.kirkwood.edu wrote:
>
> Hey! I read some of your posts/FAQ's on the honda swap forum and I
> had a couple of questions. I did try to search for the answers but I
> must not understand how to use the search option correctly. Anyway,
> I am interested in putting a B18 engine into my '91 CRX SI. In your
> FAQ you said that the B18A will go in NP with engine mounts, shorter
> linkage and B18B axles etc.
The crx is an ef chassis (ED 4th gen base) and thus, the b18b axels will not work. the main difference is that you need to use a cable-acuated transmission. the b18b is hydrolic. the axels and intermediate shafts are different.
I have been unable to figure out where
> the different transmissions come from and what the names mean though.
> So I was wondering if you could suggest a transmission for me.
you have three options for 4th gen b-series swaps.
b18a (90-92 integra ls/gs/rs)
b17a (93 integra gsr - VERY rare. you probably won't find this tranny for a reasonable price)
b16a sir1 (JDM civic/crx sir)
the b18a is the cheapest and most available. but the b16 sir1 is the one to go with. its gearing is closer, and thus, your car will accelerate faster.
I
> want a manual and I only plan on getting the car to about 300hp so it
> doesnt need to be an outrageous tranny or anything.
all honda tranny's (except autcraptics) are pretty strong. that said, i would DEFINITLY install a quaiffe limited slip differential into any tranny you decide to go with, unless you are able to score the sir1 tranny with the OEM LSD in it. having 1-wheel drive sucks. give it 300 hp and your all over the place. the 800-1000 bucks is so worth it for the quaiffe.
Also, what the
> heck does the b18a engine come out of and where do I get the b18b
> axles?
see above.
Also, since I am trying to get to 300hp, what do you think
> would be the most cost efficient method?
i would do a b16a Sir1 swap with the lsd tranny. you can pick this up for about 2000 as a complete swap.
add mounts from hasport.com and they have a shift linkage too if your swap doesn't come with one. the axels that come with it will fit. i recommend hmotorsonline.com for motors. Steve is a good guy and his motors are super clean.
after the swap, the only way you're hitting 300whp is with a turbo set up and proper fuel management/tuning.
you're going to have to do an obd0 to obd1 conversion to use anything worthwhile for fuel management.
its easy. all you need to do is get an obd1 ecu (p30 or p28), an obd0->1 ecu conversion harness and an obd1 distributor from an 92-95 sir2 or 94-95 del sol vtec or integra gsr 94-95. and then, do the re-wiring. its very straight forward, and there is plenty of documentation on this around the boards. you can probably take care of all of this when you're wiring in the VTEC stuff.
you're going to need fairly large inejctors. i recommend 550cc saturated injectors from RC engineering. http://rceng.com is their site, and as for a dealer, http://importparts.com has them for a good price. remember to go saturated if you're going obd1. you will have to remove your resistor box as well. this removal is also documented. yuo'realso want to run a walbro 255 fuel pump to support the larger volumes of fuel needed.
then, comes the turbo. a http://www.precisionturbo.net sc34 has your name written all over it.
fuel management options range from uberdata, which is an "open source" and a do it yourself kinda set up for cheap (just buy the hardware needed) to middle of the road hondata which will run you about 550 bucks for the s200 w/ boost all the way to full standalones, like the aem EMS, fast speed pro, and so on, which are just uncalled for for your goal. so, uberdata or hondata is where you want to go with it. Either way, you're going to need dyno time and a tuner or tune yourself. but, with your experice level, i would highly recommend a qualified tuner. even a Ford tuner guy can probably tune you better than you could dicking around with it. tuning is tuning- for the most part
add a GM 3-bar map sensor, because you're going to need more than 10 psi to hit 300.
although not necessary, i would also do rods and pistons. A set of Eagle rods and some 9.5:1 compression pistons like JE, CP, or wiseco's will help in adding some support to the bottom end.
300 hp has been run on stock blocks by many people, but to me, the 500-700 bucks is worth the sense of secuirty.
> Thank you very much for your time.
No problem, but in the future, use the forums. That's what they are there for.
More so, just like you- you got no search results. Well, If this very thread was posted in the forums, it WOULD have come up. For someone else a week or year from now, it will be documented. I'm going to post this as well to let others respond as well. and from this point on, i will only reply in the forum thread.
All in all, you have a LOT of reading to do, and a lot of saving to do.
you're looking at about 2000 for the basic swap + shipping + misc belts, etc that you'll want to replace, so we'll call it 2500.
a complete turbo setup will run you at least 1000 and might hit 3500.
then, add the fuel management, injectors, fuel pump, pistons, rods, misc fittings, gauges, oil lines, tuning and dyno costs, and you're going to close in on 5-7000 before you know it.
It's an expensive sport, but in the end it's worth it.
-Brian (pissedoffsol)