jdm h22a into non vtec amerilude

[stickyfusion]

just wondering if i can get the axles off and on again during my swap w/o a ball joint separator and compressor. i dont wanna buy them

 

[reikoshea]

Ya know thats a really good question. I cannot remember if i needed one, but im PRETTY sure you dont.

 

[tab]

I haven't needed one in like 6 out of 7 swaps. A good prybar will do the job. The seventh swap was a joke, and I broke that ball joint seperator beating on it. That was a fluke.

 

[stickyfusion]

Got another really simple question. What is the easiest/safest/best way to attach an h22a to the load leveler chains-what should i attach to? BTW didnt know wehter or not to start new thread so pls advise thx

 

[tab]

a load leveler would be the best, but most folks don't have one.

You can use either a single chain and a bolt to get the initial angle right, or more than one pulley/come-a-long/hoist.

Quite often, I use a hoist in the center of the load chain. I use a long bolt to trap the chain around the lift hook, to avoid any sudden load shift. I then use a strap or chain hoist to go between the main load hook and the drivers motor mount. This allows me to tilt the transmission downward and control the engine path much better.

 

[stickyfusion]

erm so that means that i attach the chains on the load leveler to anything that will support the weight like a distributer mount bolt (if that will support 480 lbs) and basically arrange them to support the wieght at the angle i need. thanks

btw i am using a 2 ton engine hoist with a hydrualic ram and a leveler

 

[tab]

no man, there's factory loops to grab above the exhaust and on the transmission, at least for automatics.

Leveler would be the shit. That's basically what I do, but I do it the hard way.

 

[-94-AccordH22]

you know the trick i do EVERY time i need to get axles off. there is a special machined surface on the lower c-arm. to save your balls. (ahha he said balls.) anyway. i just smack that little bump with a hammer and it shock loosens the joint.

 

[stickyfusion]

ya so i guess i need to buy more chain then to get down to that factory loop on the tranny. thanks.


and ya i was pounding on my balls all fuckin day hehe... well kinda, one came off really easy but the nut on the other one was tight as shit and now i cant beat the thing off. I'm gonna go at it again tomorrow and just keep tapping that lil bump till it comes off.

 

[tab]

You can use a crowbar to assist as well. A longer bar will also help.

 

[stickyfusion]

time to replace the ball joint I beat the livin shit out of it for at least two hours straight ffs and the only thing it did was tear the shit out of the boot so now i am gonna get a loaner separator at autozone and totally anihilate that thing. ( the ball joint)

 

[tab]

I'm tellin ya, borrow a long prybar from someone, wedge it in there really good, and use your body weight. You may have already fucked that joint up, but this is good practice for the next time.

Also, you still have to get that out.

 

[stickyfusion]

ok got it. nother question: how much of a bitch is it to change the timing belt after i put the engine in...i was thinking about just leaving that area alone for a few months. How much risk do u think i am taking by doing so? the engine is a 95 jdm so i dont know how old the belt is but chances are its factory. h-motors said they gave me the one with the best commpression they had but the mileage is anyones guess.

 

[reikoshea]

change the belt. dont risk it. its a pain to change after the swap

 

[stickyfusion]

Thanks for all your help people.

 

[tab]

It's a bitch to change after the swap. However, H22 belts are tricky with that hydraulic tensioner. You'll need to buy, fabricate, or borrow the special tool that holds the tensioner compressed while changing the belt. I borrowed one from the Honda mechanics, since they like me. They can be bought for about $25 on Ebay.

 

[reikoshea]

and its like 70 bucks from the snap on guy (if he comes to your house)

 

[stickyfusion]

Ya so i need to either find that tool for cheap or get all the parts for the tenshioner fix from the junkyard to save some loot. Got it.

Now could someone please point me in the direction or link me to a good source of info about internal and external coil. I have read a lot about how to wire from internal to external and vice versa with no explanation as to why. What are the differences between the two and why does honda use internal coil for the japanese application and external in the US? Also i would still like some more detailed info on how to convert from external to internal, in other words intructions that detail what am i doing to change the way the engine gets its spark by switching these wires around and/or installing a coil or whatever.

 

[tab]

They both work the same. I prefer internal if it works. You have to get or fab a mount for the external coil, and then it takes up a little more space.

90-91 USDM Accords were internal coil, so it's not just a japanese thing.

 

[stickyfusion]

ok so the only difference is that one has the coil inside and one has the coil outside. But why dont manufacturers only use internal to save space? is it cheaper for them to go with external?

nvm i just got a coil ajemucation