The 2 wires on the injectors head in 2 different directions. One to an ecu controlled ground an the other to a power source. Have you determined which direction the fault is yet? If you unplug so much as a single injector, the red light will come on and the engine will never start untill you plug it back in, turn the key off, and back on again. The ecu has volt meters just before the ground transistors for each injector. if it doesn't sense the correct voltage during power up, the ecu will not function. The check engine light will go on solid and it will crank and crank and never fire an injector.
With the injectors unplugged, and key on, you should have 12v at each injector. if you do have 12v at each injector but the noid doesn't pulse (make sure the noid is plugged in and all injectors plugged in before you turn the key on), your next step is to find a diagram of the pcm, its usualy connector A pins 1 3 5 and 7, not sure if thats true for yours, and check if there is voltage there at all 4 pins. If even just one doesnt have 12v, the pcm will detect the fault with keyon and not allow any of the injectors to fire. These volt sensors were meant to protect the ecu from damage in the case of an open or short. It expects to see 12v at startup, and 0 volts when the transistor is on. If the transistor is on and it still sees 12v its designed to shut it off instantly to prevent the ecu from frying.
Don't use test lights with bulbs, use diode lights, low amperage. The ecu cannot protect itself from high current flow, only shorts and opens.
If you have 12v on all pins 1 3 5 and 7 at the ecu connector (unplugged) then you have a problem with the ecu not providing the grounds. The solid light on can also indicate an internal problem with the ECU, however internal problems with ecus are usualy caused by external sources. slightly shorted sensors, injectors, coils, and MOST COMMONLY, poor ecu ground. I dont know about your vehicle but usualy Honda ECUs ground to the engine block somewhere near the T-stat/throttle body area. Grounds most commonly go bad because they flow more current than any other wires on the vehicle. For example all your injectors, your coil, the ecu, many sensors and such all return that current thru that ground wire. Ive seen a lot of ground wires go bad, and a lot of poor connections to ground. This creates its own load and even though the ecu gets 12v up front, it gets starved by the ammount of volts the ground consumes. If you put 12 in, and the ground wire wants 4v, the ecu will only get 8, which in many cases isn't enough. Bad grounds can also cause fields within the ecu causing unusual voltage and current flows within the ecu causing it to malfunction.
Using an ecu diagram, locate the ground pin, leave everything plugged in, turn the key on, and backprobe the circuit with a volt meter to ground. If you have voltage on the ground wire, you have a problem. An alternative is testing ohms from that pin to the battery negative post. Anything above 40 ohms with keyon will start causing problems. With keyoff you don't want anymore than .5 ohms. If that checks out, it may just be a faulty ecu.
If its all too confusing Id recommend shipping it to a dealer, or a tech who knows electronics. I hate to see people throw expensive parts at vehicles like ecu's and distributors and such when all it is might be a loost bolt or corroded fuse. Ive unfortunatly have had customers who spend thousands of dollars trying to fix concerns and I find it to be a loose fuse or dirty relay.