sigh... another build thread. but this one will also end without epicness

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got the master cylinder in and took out the intake manifold.....=D
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figured out where im going to mount the innovative hydro conversion unit.
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powdercoated the seat brackets, pedals are in, template for the dash is fitted up and just laying out the wiring. plan ahead kids!
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all the rivets are back in the fenders. shits hard work!
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<3 my car
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<3 my shop
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First off; Look at all that room behind the head! You know, where the intake manifold bolts up... SUPERCHARGE THAT SUMBITCH!!!
I love the look of the exposed rivets on that gunmetal paint.
And I want your shop space! My Uncle has a huge finished "pull barn" (to put it easiest) where we work on our cars. He sits on 7 acres but its way out in the country so its a hastle to get out there regularly so we now just work in our decent sized fully stocked 2 car garage. Were pretty much only missing a lift.
 
First off; Look at all that room behind the head! You know, where the intake manifold bolts up... SUPERCHARGE THAT SUMBITCH!!!
I love the look of the exposed rivets on that gunmetal paint.
And I want your shop space! My Uncle has a huge finished "pull barn" (to put it easiest) where we work on our cars. He sits on 7 acres but its way out in the country so its a hastle to get out there regularly so we now just work in our decent sized fully stocked 2 car garage. Were pretty much only missing a lift.

yea i wish i had a lift. the only shitty thing about my space is that there are dudes coming in and out of there all day on the weekdays to get materials for jobsites. i have to keep all my tools locked up or things start to disappear.

So why rivets instead of just seam welding it all?
because the holes were already drilled from the last person that had the car. otherwise i would have just stitch welded it all.
 
Its easy to warp that big of a sheet when your closin up such a lil area. It takes a lot of practice.
 
Its easy to warp that big of a sheet when your closin up such a lil area. It takes a lot of practice.

yea i know. and i knew i was opening a can of worms when i asked him to weld it shut but its turning out to look okay. i just need to put some spot putty on these two high spots and the gas door side of the car will be ready for primer/paint.

the next nail biting session of welding will be when he gets around to closing up a bunch of rivet holes around the sun roof. :eek:
 
Oooo. GL with that.

Keep a wash cloth in a bucket of room temp water and drop it each spot when hes done. Gettin a hot weld isnt the problem, lettin the heat spread is.

It sounds like you prally already know that tho.
 
When your doing a big area of just sheet metal its best to go slow, do a few inches, take a break let it cool, drink a beer, few more inches, let it cool, another beer and maybe a cig. If you just try to weld it all up at once its going to warp to shit as you have already seen with the gas door.
 
Oooo. GL with that.

Keep a wash cloth in a bucket of room temp water and drop it each spot when hes done. Gettin a hot weld isnt the problem, lettin the heat spread is.

It sounds like you prally already know that tho.

makes sense. ill have him try the wet cloth method when we do the roof.
 
Ya, use that along with what ef said and you wont have any problems.

Ive seen good results from a guy welding a seam on a 6 foot truck box by goin from side to side and corner to corner to corner. I.E. front right, rear left, rear right, front left. Cooling each ~1" section with a rag as soon as he puts the torch down. And like ef said, when you start closin in on your other welds, take longer breaks. When he was done there was no warping, and he didnt need any bondo.

Another important thing I learned for him was, sanding the welds is just as important. Especially, if your using a grinder with a sanding disc on it. Dull sand paper puts A LOT of heat in the metal, and will warp a good panel. Your better of changin discs more often then needed, then usin a disc until theres nothin left.
 
yea, its just 20 holes about 1/8" each. they are also spaced about 2" from each other so it shouldnt be too hard to keep the shape of the sheet metal. ill have him start on one side, and switch to the other side every other hole.
 
DA rear suspension is in
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got my throttle bodies in, but the damn fuel rail didnt fit with the DA booster and master cylinder.
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then my buddy came by and had a bright idea of turning the runners around and having the fuel rail on the top. so we did that and the brake fluid resevoir is in the way. so whats going to happen is i am going to plug up the inlet on that side and drill/tap a hole for the fitting so it comes out the rear of the rail instead of the side.
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That dosent look like any ITB I have ever seen, The runners and TB look like there locations were switched.
 
Alright...I like the ITB's!!

haha i knew you guys would come around! :D

That dosent look like any ITB I have ever seen, The runners and TB look like there locations were switched.

they are obx ITB's. pretty well built other than most of the nuts and bolts being garbage, and the runners need a dab of hondabond. i had to turn the top runners around on the throttle body because the fuel rail wont clear my big ass DA brake booster. its going to need a bit of fab work to fit perfectly, but it will turn out good.
 
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