suggestions on b20 block and b16 head

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i want to build the b20/b16 but i heard about the whole sleeve cracking deal from compression and seeing as how im thinking of using a higher compression head and possibly a turbo what could i do to prevent this cracking. and im open to suggestion for cams and tranny . i was thinking a gsr lsd tranny and those cams that heard about that keep the engine v-tech the whole time . btw im going to use this as a street car so if anything would wreck it prematurely or give me any shit i am open to suggestions.
 
I would not turbo a B20 (although others would). All motor can be done right and be relatively safe but if you are set on turbo....I say not the B20/VTEC. Any VTEC turbo takes a lot more tuning time (from an experienced tuner on a dyno)

You are speaking of TODA VTEC Killers but I am pretty dang sure those are all motor camshafts.

If its a daily driver....IMO....you need to re-evaluate your expectations, money, accessibility to knowledge and, most importantly, a decent tuner you can take it to. It sounds like you are wanting to have a high horsepower set up but I truly think you need to educate yourself a little more about B20/VTEC or any Frankenstein set up for that matter. Its a really bad idea to run a Frankenstein Turbo for a DD....but thats just my opinion.
 
i dont need a turbo but i am pretty set on the b20 b16 i can the engine its just i have never done 2 different halves . and i can get a b16 from a 93 integra here whole car for 200 bucks the motor is blown thats why the b20 bottom came to my head . its not that i wanted v tech i just thought the power would be nice. i want it to be fast butnothing over 300 hp
 
and i know a dude here that actualy did a h22 literaly in 1and a half days harness and all cable to hydro conversion like that mount deal the converts cable to hydro if you know what i mean.
 
im not 100% sure where the myth "VTEC is harder to tune, or takes more time to tune" was started.. but IMO its complete BS.

the guy that tuned my car took less time to tune a friends car (LS VTEC) than he did to tune mine (LS). both are turbo'd.

the only difference is the mapping is slightly different for the VTEC. but the stock map is obviously already set up to account for the crossover, and basically when you tune youre just adding more fuel to that. what is so much different? you do the exact same with a non vtec map.
 
im not 100% sure where the myth "VTEC is harder to tune, or takes more time to tune" was started.. but IMO its complete BS.

the guy that tuned my car took less time to tune a friends car (LS VTEC) than he did to tune mine (LS). both are turbo'd.

the only difference is the mapping is slightly different for the VTEC. but the stock map is obviously already set up to account for the crossover, and basically when you tune youre just adding more fuel to that. what is so much different? you do the exact same with a non vtec map.

Its only harder for new tuners, If hes having trouble tuning your engine.....I would find another tuner.

And there is quite a bit more than just adding a bit more fuel, you also want to pull ignition. sounds easy but its not.

Also there is nothing wrong with boosting a b20 vtec. and Its VTEC not VTECH ok? good.

Its all in the tune. Here are some vids of a local tuner.

YouTube - Revspeed's bone stock b20 block test (b20 vtec 21 psi) Revspeed559


This b20 took a beating every day, when tuned the block had a cracked sleeve and bent rods lol. they took it to the drag strip they were hearing a knock. They thought it was the engine that took a shit but it was the fly wheel that was lose.

YouTube - stock block b20 vtec turbo e85 dyno Revspeed559

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEriKTWZMRc
 
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In come the nay-sayer's of my opinion. I stay on the safer side of it all so I would NEVER have a DD Frankenstein with a turbo......no thank you very much.

And Matt......you friend is probably very experienced with VTEC tunes and from what I know...tolerances get pretty sensitive with a turbo VTEC but this is just from listening to a few different shops throughout my time. I guess they cold be full of shit........:shrug2:
 
You can boost a B20 Vtec on low boost. Keep it at or below 250-300whp(use GSR cams). Trust me, If you do it right you can do it. I know a Bunch of people who do it and have no problems.

You must DYNO TUNE your engine when boosting a B20 vtec or LS vtec so it can be a reliable DD.

I would just freshen up the engine before you boost, light hone, new rings, new bearings, ARP rod bolts, and 98+ gsr water/oil pump.

If you do that you will have a perfectly reliable B20 vtec.
 
In come the nay-sayer's of my opinion. I stay on the safer side of it all so I would NEVER have a DD Frankenstein with a turbo......no thank you very much.

There is nothing wrong with Boosting a LS/b20 vtec. Just use ARP rod bolts and freshen up the bottom end, you will be fine. There are thousands of people doing it with superb success.
 
i also agree that boosting a b20vtec is fine. like previously stated, just do it right and dont go for more than 300whp, and it will be fine.

even 250whp in a little civic is a lot of power on the street, and should easily get into the 12s in the 1/4.
 
im not even thinking of the frankenstein any more a b18c is more around my price range they are every where to so it shouldnt take me to long to get one . i also have a question how much horse power would a stroker kit add to a b18 with high comp cams and around an 86mm bore ? would it be around 220? and could that be used as a dd and what would need to be done to get it tuned just some one to tune fuel/air?
 
you could surely make 220whp with a stroked and bored b18c, but i doubt that would be the cheapest way to make it. i would think the cheapest way to make 220 with an all motor B series would have to be a b20vtec.

what you need to do is set a horsepower goal. then research what it will take to get that number with different setups. i think that you will see that a b20vtec with high compression pistons, some nice cams and valvetrain, nice header, intake mani, and some dyno tuning will make 220 and be reliable.

you really need to decide on a power goal before starting any build. once you build it all motor, switching to a boosted setup later will be a real headache, and you will pretty much have to start over.
 
im more or less aiming for around 250 hp , im not going to get a stroker just wondering ,there is a shop here that does bores for 400bucks isnt that a good deal? i only have a b18 avilable to me or a b16 from a 93 integra but its blown, i like the b18 for its durability seems like every one els uses it plus they come pretty close to the 180 horse power range thats almost to the 250 mark it might make it there with just a turbo, i dont really know i got mixed feelings on the whole thing , i am set on a turbo and b18c now just looking for the best way to set it up without going over 3000 dollars, not including the dyno tunning,
 
i found a drag turbo kit? any difference than any onther turbo? can it be used in the streets
 
In come the nay-sayer's of my opinion. I stay on the safer side of it all so I would NEVER have a DD Frankenstein with a turbo......no thank you very much.

And Matt......you friend is probably very experienced with VTEC tunes and from what I know...tolerances get pretty sensitive with a turbo VTEC but this is just from listening to a few different shops throughout my time. I guess they cold be full of shit........:shrug2:

im not nay saying, just stating that the guy who tuned my car had no problem with it.. and 99% of the turbod setups in my area are LS-VTEC or b16s lol
 
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