CRX / ZC Failed e-test please help

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pappaj

New Member
I just bought an '89 crx si, it already had the zc swap done. I brought it in today for a safety and emission test, it only needed rear brake shoes for safety but it failed the etest for the curb idle it wasn't too far off if anyone has any suggestions for things to replace (hopefullly cheap) I would like to just get it plated. The car runs very well doesn't burn any oil, I noticed it idles a little low but I figured this would help. I'm going to change spark plugs and oil then try again.
 
don't take my word for it, but I think I read somewhere that you put some E-85 on it and it'll pass (search for it). Just a tinny bit, don't go crazy on it or you won't make it to testing.
 
I was thinking about turning the idle up, the readings are really good at higher rpm's. I changed plugs this weekend and oil and am replacing air filter. The plugs seemed to be "well used". The idle has gotten smoother since the new plugs. I just want the car on the road so I can put my ls in it this summer once I can ride my bike. At least I will have some time to work out any bugs before next etest.
 
It failed on the curb idle in both hc and co. I changed the oil, spark plugs, air filter, increased the idle and I advanced the timing. I did a re-test and this time it failed on the 40km/h drive test with high nox due to me increasing the timing. So I put the timing back (I hope) to where it was, and today I will try test #3.
 
It failed test #3 it was a little closer but still 300 ppm off limit is 900ppm last time it has 1550ppm, this time 1240ppm. So I retarded the timing so much it is sluggish down low. I am also running high octane gas which burns hot, that could be part off the problem. I think if the the spark plugs are wrong they will cause this also. Does anyone know proper replacement plugs for this car.
 
(high octane gas) well... I think there is your problem. it takes longer for high octane to burn than low octane and in regular compression engines don't completely burn.
 
It finally passed.^_^^_^^_^ I guess the trick is to retard the timing til the car runs sluggish. By doing that all of the emissions dropped off quite a bit. I talked to a few people who said if you have trouble passing etest for your honda just retard the timing. I retarded mine to about 5deg. btdc. I thought I would fail for sure because of how sluggish it was but to my amazment it passed with flying colours.
 
It finally passed.^_^^_^^_^ I guess the trick is to retard the timing til the car runs sluggish. By doing that all of the emissions dropped off quite a bit. I talked to a few people who said if you have trouble passing etest for your honda just retard the timing. I retarded mine to about 5deg. btdc. I thought I would fail for sure because of how sluggish it was but to my amazment it passed with flying colours.
i was just gonna say if you fail for hc, retart the distributor. i did it in the parking lot at e-check and pulled bak thru and passed..:D
 
Yes by retarding the timing it seemed to lower all of the emissions. Hc and co on the curb idle did not even register a reading and on the 40km/h test the hc's and co's were almost cut in half.
 
What ever motor you have run a NGK plug not for sure on the exact one. But if you want better performance with a lower emmision content run a hot plug NGK seems to be the brand of choice here in Germany also run a bigger plug wire so you get less resistance in the wire. One of the most noticable power increases I have done on my 91 hatch with a D15B2 was the 10.3mm plug wires. The idle was alot smoother and the throttle response was much better. Good Luck

TRU
 
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